Morning All

Couple of queries about the truck I'm getting, but bit of history before hand, it's been in the family since 2010 when my late father bought it and it subsequently passed to my brother who now wants rid as he's imported a Forester STI (that appears to have a habit of spewing its coolant everywhere.) so the truck is standing dormant.


1st query.
Last job dad had done on the L200 was a major service and cambelt/bottom pulley and all the transmission oils changed in in 2011 and it hasn't been touched mechanically since (very mild use by my brother but it's only now on 39k), it needs 4 new tyres and an mot from what I can see but what would be most urgent things to do to it on age/mileage now as it hasn't been touched by my brother (who has no mechanical sympathy for anything) before I start using it?



2nd Query
Dad used it for shooting so and fitted a non matching truckman top to the back of it trucks black and silver, top is silver/gold ish (it was cheap!) but little brother removed this but kept the clamps in place to hold the load liner in, as it lifts up at motorway speeds, is there a better way to secure the bed liner ? its an overlip mitsubishi one if that makes a difference or does it need replacing?

Third and final query!
Dad used it for mild off roading on the shoot but kept it very clean underneath but brother never bothered to keep up the cleaning regime but never off roaded in it so there is the very slightest amount of surface only rust on the rear chassis due to road salt, nothing a good scrub down with some emery cloth won't get rid off but i was wondering about getting it protected so which is the best product? or way to do it? is it a case of just buying a tin of wax oil and a brush or should i go to one of these company that get it on a ramp and spray the undersides and coat everything?

Thanks in advance

Phil

1. A good service, making sure all the grease points get attended to. It will be due a new timkng beltl within the next year by dint of age.

2. A bead of Sikaflex around the underside edge, clamped down and allowed to cure for 48hrs.

3. Syntax UB and UC are unquestionably the best commercially available products, but are hideously expensive. Dinitrol is very good and more cost effective.

Thanks Lemmy, much appreciated!

Just so happens i recently bought a grease gun so should be ok for that, what's the best oil to use for them? would It need a coolant change? around this age?

Thanks

10w/40 diesel suitable semi synthetic. Cheap stuff is fine, just so long as it's CF/SL or higher. Service intervals are only 4500 miles, so cheap oil dropped regularly for new is ideal.

These engines are sometimes called kettles due to their habit of head problems. A 2 yearly flush and coolant change is absolutely critical to long term health.

Brill thanks!

I'd best crack on and sort those then before I even move it!