Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#1 by David Lochs , Mon Mar 07, 2016 8:59 pm

Hi,

My pulley is wobbling like hell so ordered a new one.
After ordering it a bike mechanic friend said don't bother changing it, give it to a mechanic, you need to lock the pulleys or you'll change the timing (generally bugger it up).

Any trained mechanics about?...

Is it enough/ safe to just stick the truck in 5th gear with the hand brake on to crack the bolt open?
If doing it in gear with the handbrake on is too risky, will I manage with a basic crankshaft pulley holder?
If so can I re-use the bolt?

Cheers,

David


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#2 by 123hotchef , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:05 pm

not true mate changing that pulley wont effect the timming at all

Is it enough/ safe to just stick the truck in 5th gear with the hand brake on to crack the bolt open? yes also get someone to stand on the foot brake
If doing it in gear with the handbrake on is too risky, will I manage with a basic crankshaft pulley holder? no need
If so can I re-use the bolt? get a new genine bolt AND washer


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#3 by 4life-extreme , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:06 pm

you will need to remove the radiator. The bolt can be a pain to get off. dont reuse the bolt All the parts are available from Milners or K&S. If your brave you can release the bolt by slightly cranking the engine using a socket and bar against the chassis.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#4 by 123hotchef , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:06 pm

i have done it without removing the rad fiddley but much easier to do it if u do remove the rad


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#5 by David Lochs , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:12 pm

I know changing the pulley its self won't affect the timing but I think he meant while cracking the bolt loose or torquing the bolt up I could slip the crankshaft sprocket behind it?


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#6 by 123hotchef , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:17 pm

I have never slipped the sprocket behind it nor have I heard of this happening it would have to have the belt slip on the sprokets for that to happen u may move the truck forward if the brakes are not pushed hard enough but as for the belts to slip no way really, I have heard of really stuborn bolts needing persuasion by either turning the engine over with a breaker bar rested on the chassis rail and socket on the crank pulley bolt, others have taken starter out and jammed the fly wheel but I have just used a scaffie pole on my 3' bar and broken the bolt with the mrs on the brakes and truck in high gear


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#7 by David Lochs , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:30 pm

Cheers guys, I'll order a genuine bolt (milners crankshaft pulley ready and waiting).
It's the ol' man that was on the phone to said bike mechanic friend so god knows what he told him!!

The mechanic friend knows his stuff so I had to ask youse before carrying on in case I was missing something. I'll just have to assume dad gave him the wrong impression and maybe the mechanic friend thought I was going to change the crankshaft sprocket its self. Nope, just the pulley.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#8 by 123hotchef , Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:32 pm

yeh maybe he thought that mate milners bolts are genuine i am led to believe


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#9 by David Lochs , Fri Mar 11, 2016 10:10 pm

Got the pulley removed and the bolt came loose with a lot less effort than I feared!
Used a 3 foot long (approx) maybe 3 and 1/2 foot long breaker bar.

SILLY QUESTION TIME...
Excuse my ignorance... but what is the wobbly part in this video?...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJBIS9my2CA&feature=youtu.be
A seal? Too light to be part of the sprocket behind it and the timing or balance belt wouldn't allow that movement surely if it was part of a sprocket.
Is it allowed to wobble without a torqued down pulley infront of it?

Bottom line - is it okay or needing replaced and what is it?


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#10 by David Lochs , Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:32 pm

Crankshaft position sensor - reluctor ring.
Looks like the pulley will hold it secure so I'm guessing it's okay to wobble when the pulley is off.
Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#11 by 123hotchef , Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:35 pm

yep thats it so u have removed the rad now much easier to get at


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#12 by David Lochs , Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:48 pm

I haven't removed the radiator.
The gopro was resting against the radiator to keep the camera still to take that photo.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#13 by 123hotchef , Sat Mar 12, 2016 12:50 pm

ha ha well its a good pic never the less, funny first time i did my bottom pulley i didnt remove the rad either, cant remember if i was scared or couldnt be bothered now probably a bit of both,


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#14 by David Lochs , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:03 pm

I unbolted the intercooler rack to get the fan out. There's plenty space if you don't need a gear puller.
I just don't want to take the radiator out because it's going straight to a garage for the head gasket once the pulley is replaced (the pulley was wobbling too bad to drive - too risky).

Next time that pulley ages I'm taking the radiator out. Those radiator fins and intercooler fins are so soft and easily damaged.

It would be a waste of coolant because it would be drained again next week.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#15 by 123hotchef , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:05 pm

u could have kept the coolant and put it back in mate


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#16 by David Lochs , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:08 pm

Yeah but it's the extra time working on it too. I thought if I can do it without the radiator out then why not. Looks like plenty of space if a gear puller's not needed. Lucky it wasn't.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#17 by 123hotchef , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:10 pm

why not too mate i agree


dont forget the locktite when u put the new bolt in


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#18 by David Lochs , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:24 pm

Aye I've got it somewhere... "somewhere safe".


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#19 by 123hotchef , Sat Mar 12, 2016 1:28 pm

lol always the way thats why i now have 4 bottles!


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#20 by David Lochs , Sun Mar 13, 2016 12:54 pm

My woodruf key is well stuck in.
Tried prising it out with a tiny flathead screw driver.
Tried tiny but strong mole grips.
Tried a sharp chisel and hammer on the tip and tapping it left to right to loosen it.

Not budging - any ideas?


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#21 by 123hotchef , Sun Mar 13, 2016 12:54 pm

leave it be


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#22 by David Lochs , Sun Mar 13, 2016 12:56 pm

If I don't get it out I'll just have to fit the new pulley and hand the new key to the mechanic when he does the timing belts.


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#23 by 123hotchef , Sun Mar 13, 2016 12:58 pm

do u have any nippers or end cutters? they will cut into the key a bit then u got some grip to pull against


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#24 by David Lochs , Sun Mar 13, 2016 1:01 pm

I was just about to ask if it's safe to use cutting pliers.
I'll give it a go and if it doesn't work I'll leave it incase I shave the edge down or damage it


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RE: Crankshaft pulley removal & re-torquing.

#25 by 123hotchef , Sun Mar 13, 2016 1:03 pm

cutting pliers will bite into the key and give u something to grip


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