Aaaaaagh!

As in the title folks. I thought all was going too well with the head removal. The front headbolt opened out, it didn't even budge so it is still in there tight. It's the one inside the rocker cover next to the cam, so not alot of room to get any sort of grips on it. I have tried to knock it round with a cold chissel as you will see in the picture, but stopped before I did some damage...
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What's the best way to get the bugger out now?

You could drill the bolt head off, remove the cylinder head and then put 2 nuts of the threaded section and turn the bottom nut to undo it. Failing that get the grips on the rest of the bolt and turn it out that way.

Impact gun on the alen key would have shifted it. Can u hammer a different size hex or star or into it

I hammered a Torx socket into it and thought it was gonna go, but no such luck...

I'll be drilling the head off tomorrow morning. The bolts are as soft as s@#t, so I don't think it will be too much trouble... Ha ha just like removing the head was suppossed to be... Fingers crossed.

Try an impact driver, the hammer type. That's what I used hit it a few taps then it loosened off with a bar

Hammer a multi hex (12 point) socket onto the outside of it. Then use a breaker bar not an impact gun.

Quote: Buford,T,Justice wrote in post #5

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Try an impact driver, the hammer type. That's what I used hit it a few taps then it loosened off with a bar

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Quote: Alan G wrote in post #6

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Hammer a multi hex (12 point) socket onto the outside of it. Then use a breaker bar not an impact gun.

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Another option is a spline instead of a hex, batter it in the hole & again breaker bar. To drill it will prob need specialist drill bits as they are hardened steel.

Quote: Alan G wrote in post #8

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Another option is a spline instead of a hex, batter it in the hole & again breaker bar. To drill it will prob need specialist drill bits as they are hardened steel.

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got a welder? if so weld a nut onto it

I went for the drilling option in the end. I started by drilling a small pilot hole and progressed up through the drill box up to 13mm.

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The bolt yeilded without drilling the whole head off.

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Head came off easilly.

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Turnes out it's junk anyway.

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Cracked in between each valve on each cylinder.

Mitzi main dealer quoted me £600 for a new made up head, also said I should use a genuine gasket but could use Milners head bolts without any issues as theirs are too expensive. My local engineer shop is giving me a quote to strip my old head and fit into a bare head.

K S International is cheaper, they offer a genuine head for about £400. Has anyone fitted 1?

Martin

Have you called Milner 4x4 to see if they can beat the price (forum discount)
There is a guy called Robert Jones on the OC FB page, he breaks L200 in Wales
He is helpful and will post stuff

Update.

I had a local specialist engineer company build up a new bare head from my old one.

I got round to getting it all back together again today. A bit of a worry at first as it didn't want to run, but after about 8 goes it fired up ok. Got it up to temp, topped up the water and oil them took it for a test drive.

All went well. I replaced the little rubber water pipe at the back of the head/block and wrapped it in some heat wrap material that is used on motorbike down pipes. Hopefully that should protect it. I also wrapped my EGR bypass pipe in the stuff too.
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You can see the heat wrap on the EGR bypass pipe in this picture, I forgot to take 1 of the little pipe.

Thank you for the help and guidance.