Chaps.......checked the technical archive for these details but we obviously don't have a How to on this one yet. I just need to know the torque settings for the cylinder head and the sequence also please. Since it is a 'common' issue I don't mind putting a how to together for this one once I've done the job. Rang local Mitsi dealer and they were about as much help as a slap in the face. Going to try Mitsubishi HQ but they are notoriously slow in getting back to people. Cheers in advance.....

from memory its only an initial torque setting to set the head down then its angles


dont forget to make sure the bolt holes are totally clean, any crap in the bottom of the holes will affect the actual head being down correctly, even though you have the bolts torqued and turned to the correct angles

Look under 'specifications' I have put the head tightening sequence there as a quick reference, undo in reverse order to tightening in 2 or 3 stages helps to stop warping or cracking.
Torque and angle settings are there too.

and dont forget there are a couple of thickness of head gasket, if yours is metal get a micrometer or at least a vernier on it to check

Lovely thanks chaps.

Ok so let me just make sure I've got this. You do an initial tighten, in the given sequence to 29Nm. Then you tighten in the same sequence to 120degrees? How do I measure that 120degrees of rotation on each bolt?

Posted by: treeboa

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and dont forget there are a couple of thickness of head gasket, if yours is metal get a micrometer or at least a vernier on it to check

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Could you explain this a little further Mike?

remember from the oc that there was discussion regarding metal and fiber head gaskets, at that time it was also brought up that you can get more than one thickness of gasket, im assuming from mem that it was to cover the elevated compression ratio if the head was skimmed, but it could also be for manufacturing error as well, if i rem right the standard fitments are metal and somewere on them is the code or thickness marking, though dont hold me to that point

sent you some info, but as its not from here to cover copywrite rules i have pmed it to you, hope it explains/helps

If I remember right the workshop manual had a two stage torque procedure for pre FBW trucks then it changes to the angle method after. Would imagine it would be ok to use either

As far as I can tell it's the tow stage with angles on pre FBW. I am going to double check everything I'm doing before I do it though.

Might be worth mentioning that there are 2 lots of part numbers (talking about genuine) for the head bolts.
One listed for 'pre' and one for 'post' fly-by-wire.
The later type were also proceeded with a replacement part number.

the best bet would be to bolt down according to bolt type rather than truck type, see if you get stretch bolts or not when they turn up.

Has somebody given you the details yet? I can send you the torque sequence if not

Yeah I got the torque and angle sequence for a pre 2002. Which mine is. But you raise a good point about the bolts that come with the head. I wouldn't know personally? Guess I need a part number to reference too?

The bolts will have ID marks on the top of the heads

But how do I know which is which?

Post up a photo of the ID marks when they arrive.
Another thing to mention,
The old engines used a composit gasket and 'normal' bolts.
The stretch/tty bolts were used to deal with the later type of MLS gasket.

Hopefully the place you got your head from will have supplied the correct bolts to match the gasket, not the correct bolts for the head you have ordered.

Thanks mate. I'll get picks up when it all arrives. This weekend is all about getting it apart. cheers for the help.

Billy, here's my Head bolt inscription. And I have a steel gasket. Let me know which sequence to follow....... cheers........

Hum, looks like a standard bolt (the 10.9 is the tensile rating)
Been a while since doing any pre 2003's but I remember the oem bolts being a 12.2 but I doubt that would make much odds.
One way to id a TTY/Stretch bolt is have a look at the shank. If the non-threaded part of the shank is smaller dia than the threaded bit it's an early type of stretch bolt but they are rarely tensile marked.

The problem with what sequence to use is:
The stretch bolts were introduced to deal with sealing problems on the later steel gaskets. The idea of a stretch bolt is to provide an (a very) even force on each bolt as the steel gasket will expand uniformly when heated.

The older type bolts were fine with the composit gasket as it does not expand in the same way.

To use those bolts with a mls gasket, I would use a torque only sequence. You need REALLY clean bolt holes and clean the bolts as well. You need to torque evenly and use a good torque wrench as every bolt needs to be excerting exactly the same pressure as the next.

If you have any torque lubricant then put some on each bolt and wind them all into the holes (with the head off) to spread the lube evenly through the threads, lube under the head and on top of the washer as well.

Also important to steady torque values is the washers. The ones inside the rocker cover are normally ok but the ones on the outside will be rusty. The rust will bind under the bolt head and give a false torque readout so if you have not ordered new washers make sure you can clean the washers up well.

I only ever use the torque only settings, never toque and angle, tighten down in three stages and always do an extra check at 5Nm over last torque setting in reverse order.
Just a personal preference, but never failed with a head gasket or broken a head bolt ( and I do not renew them).
Lez.

You can not 'torque only' tighten a stretch (or, despite the name, torque to yield) bolt as the point of the angle tighten is to take it past the yield point of the bolt.
Once the bolt has gone past it's yield point the 'tighteness' of the bolt will not increase, it will just get longer.
As the 'stretch' is only points of a mm it's very easy to either over stretch or not stretch it enough.

Although you can re-use them and get away with it I have seen plenty of motors that have had gasket fails within weeks of having the gasket replaced.
I have also started telling people they need a new block when they come to me with a snapped bolt as they are a pita to drill out!

If I was re-using a stretch bolt I would do a 'torque' only tighten as it reduces the risk of breakage.

Back to the OP though, to use a 'non-stretch' bolt on a MLS gasket you need to be sure all the blots are VERY evenly tightened to ensure even gasket compression.
Do you have any lube for the bolts? if not I will see if I can find some way of putting some in with the copper nuts for you

Right, slight information overload For starters; the shank is even on the threaded and non threaded parts except for a small section just below the head which is a larger diameter. To clarify; I have standard, NOT stretch bolts and a MLS (steel) gasket? So therefore I should be using a torque only sequence?

I should also be making sure all my washers are clean and tidy or new. I should be lubing the thread holes and bolts before hand.

If I do this, what is my torque stages?

OR.........

I could just order a composite gasket and go with the torque and angle sequence?

Either way if you think I should lube then yeah send me some lube with the nuts and I'll send you the extra dosh. (since I need a lift now to even visit Halfords)

Posted by: Yoda

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Right, slight information overload For starters; the shank is even on the threaded and non threaded parts except for a small section just below the head which is a larger diameter. To clarify; I have standard, NOT stretch bolts and a MLS (steel) gasket?
Yes, all correct
So therefore I should be using a torque only sequence?
you should use a torque only for the bolts you have, but, the MLS gasket is supposed to be used with stretch bolts
I should also be making sure all my washers are clean and tidy or new. I should be lubing the thread holes and bolts before hand.
It want's to be better than clean, all mating surfaces should be mint clean, you will need to get very precise torques due to the steel gasket
If I do this, what is my torque stages?

OR.........

I could just order a composite gasket and go with the torque and angle sequence?
You will most likly get away with using what you have if you do it correctly, or, you could order a compo gasket to match your bolts, or order some new bolts to match the steel gasket.
How excatly did you end up with m ismatched bolts and gasket anyway? I would think most suppliers should know about it, there is normally a warning on the gasket packet telling you what bolts to use as well
Either way if you think I should lube then yeah send me some lube with the nuts and I'll send you the extra dosh. (since I need a lift now to even visit Halfords)

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I quite like the concept of doing things how they were meant to be done. And I quite like the idea of using the upgraded steel gasket. So with that route can you just confirm that these Werbung: Head Bolts are what I want for my gasket. If correct I 'll just order these and sort it out with the company who supplied the head on Monday.

Look like what you need.
Might be worth checking the price against milners etc but doubt ther will be that much in it
I will send you the sequence with the other bits. I don't expect you will be able to read it as I had a job 'packaging' some lube so it is going to have gone over everything by the time it gets to you