might be one fro woody!

my nephew has just posted this on D2 club

Anybody done a half chassis replacement themselves. If so what's the best way to support the body

I thought axle stands wth 4x4 posts across?

I was involved in a full resto of a car years ago that had broken it's back , we welded in a full cross brace cage through the doors and body to hold it in place while the chassis was cut about and rebuilt

Thanks rob

Be easier to throw another chassis under it.

hm, I thought that, I can see me spending a week in the west country!

To do a cut and shut chassis is a pain in he arse , you have to take a lot of reference measures of the original and if you have the replacement take the same from that so see if there are any differences before you cut them both . A lot are done by butting both ends together and this method is best done with an inner sleeve that both cut ends slide onto with an outer diamond plate to span the joint to support the join , next method is a staggered joint with an inner sleeve , this will give more adjustment for for squaring up the chassis before the final weld but would also require a diamond plate to cover the joins . The next thing is the problem of using half of one chassis and half of a different registered one , for me I wouldn't be to worried but in the eyes of the the law it may be different

@paulw there is a place in Exeter apparantly that will replace the rear chassis for about £600 all in...was talking to local garage about it the other day as my mate was just pxing in their 02 disco but garage had spotted rear chassis was going ( surpringsly )

Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #7

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@paulw there is a place in Exeter apparantly that will replace the rear chassis for about £600 all in...was talking to local garage about it the other day as my mate was just pxing in their 02 disco but garage had spotted rear chassis was going ( surpringsly )

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I don't Paul , but if I remember I'll see if the garage do

I'm a panel beater and have done a rear third on a defender 90 which wasn't too terrible a job, but they didn't have the hassle of air suspension, ace pipes and the increased wiring etc.
The new chassis section comes with an over lapped sleeve which allows about 5 inches of the original chassis to sleeve inside the new section, thereafter the edge is seamed welded and several plug welds through the sleeved section.
If you are doing it on a non accident damaged body then it's fairly straight forward and you simply take some basic measurements from the rotten section pre removal, and once cut locate the new section into the existing body mounts.
In terms of legal identity it won't be much of an issue as the numbers are on the front section and you are using a new replacement part, but that said I'd take plenty of photos in the unlikely event you are ever pulled.
In terms of structural integrity, your puting in a join where there wasn't one before, so the impact characteristics will be different, however it's not so much of an issue on lightweight unitary construction vehicles (separate body and chassis), especially when their 15 plus years old and are more likely to be structurally compromised by corrosion in the event of an accident.
Certainly worth doing on a Defender or a Series as they do good money and retain their value, but I wouldn't waste my time on a Disco two as their ten a penny and it's money your never getting back, but that said £600 is a good price for all that work, especially if that includes stripping and refitting of all the mechanicals.

wow, this is when being a member really pays off, thanks guys

so @paulw ... take it yours is starting to go?

nope solid as a rock!!