Hi. For some time now ive been working on my truck trying to resolve a running problem and im running out of ideas and finances so could do with some advice on the bigger stuff to tackle before i rush in. The vehicle is a 1998 l200 2.5 diesel fitted with a turbo but not muc else in regard of fineries ie no egr , crank sensor etc. It wont rev past 2000 rpm and will sit at this speed spluttering badly and producing a fair ammount of smoke that definitely has a touch of blue to it. Ive proved no air was causing this at least up to the pump itself by bypassing tank and filter and just changed the injectors with no improvement at all. Its been suggested that the cause could be cylinder head, pump or turbo . Pumps i believe may be worth more than the truck itself and im guessing replacing the head could be a big job. What does anyone else think? any ideas are appreciated.

Is it black smoke ? If so are all the air pipes intake and clear?

When my egr valce ( i know you havent one ) was sticking , mine wouldnt rev and kicked out black smoke ... eventually it wouldnt start...it was all down to the valce sticking....

It's more blue smoke and grey really. I've had a lot of trouble trying to get it diagnosed actally. The engine centre I normally use reckon the pumps are too expensive to bother doing up and most garages seem to think it's too old as there's no fault codes to go on .

Quote: Earlybird112 wrote in post #3

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It's more blue smoke and grey really. I've had a lot of trouble trying to get it diagnosed actally. The engine centre I normally use reckon the pumps are too expensive to bother doing up and most garages seem to think it's too old as there's no fault codes to go on .

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Exactly. I'm afraid many are wary to start something they're unsure about. Prices soon rise with fault finding and replacing bits and no results usually = angry customers

pump aint that expensive on your old one id say pump seals

If its grey smoke , I'm tempted to side with cheffy in it being the pump seals ... @Alan G has played with a few pre fly by wire pumps , he might be able to offer advice ... but I think a second hand one may be any where between £150-300 , surely your truck is worth more than this though but obviously you don't want to spend that unless you are 100% sure its the pump..which i could fully understand

My first thought was pump as origin ally it was assumed air was getting in. Those kinda prices are perfect , I'd rather recon the old if poss as second hand may not be any better . Do u know if they require much setting up once removed. ?

not that much not u need a dti gauge

Where about a are you. Anyone near on here that can help u do it. Is there play in the turbo?? The fact that it won't rev past 2k sounds like a fuel issue.

I'm actually in Norfolk. Ill see if I can get a quote on installing new seals. Someone I'm sure must still do them . Then I can bite the bullet take the belt off again and remove the pump. Not sure what a dti gauge is ?

Hey @Earlybird112 . A dti gauge (dial test indicator) is used to set up the pump timing. The pump can be rotated to accurately set the fuel injection timing. Can't remember the history of your truck atm, but I've read before that the people have come across pumps where the timing belt has been out by a notch and then compensated by rotating the pump to correct it. You can get a dti gauge and adapter that plugs into the back of the fuel pump for about £25 so that you can check your pump timing. I would strongly advise you to do this before you start throwing more money at the problem. Let us know if you want to try this first and I will post up some links to the kit you need. You'll need this anyway if you take the pump off, so may as well check it before you do,

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This is a dti guage bud. U use one of these with a long plunger in the back of the pump when u install it. Use it to set the pump timing. Ur engine is old school tho. The best. No electrics. U can get it somewhere near. Start the engine and adjust the pump til it sounds right.

I had a pump that the front seal went & started letting air through. The seal is cheap enough on ebay & easy to do if you know how to do the timing belt. You dont even need to strip the lower cover off as you can get it from the top.

Hey @Alan G .Did you get the same symptoms?

Mine started cutting out but I didn't fart about I just changed the pump as I had a spare. Deffo sounds like a fuel issue you have and no electronics to cause issues. Just check all the we vacuum pipes aren't split & drawing air as part of the pump is vacuum operated. The seal you need is sold by Mitsibits

Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

Werbung: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PAJERO-SHOGUN-...A8AAOSwrklU9tBN

thanks everyone so far for your help i really appreciate it. I think my plan of action is 1 to check pump timing so an idea of the correct tool would be great. I read instructions and the turning 30 degree and 9 degree bit was bit confusing but ill cross that bridge little later. Then maybe replace the seal u gave a link to. again would need advice as no idea where to start on this and thirdly off with the pump and on with a 2nd hand one or better still reconditioned. I think like u all this i where the problem is, as ive put on earlier thread it will die while driving, youll be doing 50mph take your foot off the accelerator and realise the engine is dead and coast to a stop. With the ease of parcel delivery im sure someone countrywide offers a re build service and then i will have to tool as u say for a refit.

Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

I used this:

Werbung: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-PRO-VW-Audi...-/132179413794?

with one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01H...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

worth a check before you strip it out, but probably a bit optimistic of me. At least you know how to do the timing belts now for when you put it back in

@Earlybird112 where about in the country are you ???

Thanks. im in Norfolk , near Norwich to be precise. The link to Ebay worked ok not amazon tho. Im guessing this was the actual dial gauge and the ebay tool screwed into it and fits the connection in the back of the pump ? The belts aint so daunting now but its a bit of a pain! worst thing i found taking tension off pulleys, i had to lever them back and nip up on the bolt and not much to get a bite on i found . i can easily imagine something cracking on the pump plate if not too careful

Updated link

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01H035DRO

hi, had someone look at the truck and they were fairly sure not the pump. This goes totally against what ive been gearing myself up for. Their suggestion to replace head gasket and maybe head . This seems pretty drastic without better fault finding first but as ive been unable to find anyone who repairs pumps it may be worth a try. Any ideas on simple checks for a cracked head on these? Not sure if bubbles in the water resevoir are going to be evident on here, the supply from the rad appears vented on the bottle anyhow and not sure the lid even fits tight.
Also does anyone know if i filmed a short clip of it running at speed if i could post it on here for you all to take a look?

stick the movie up, leave rad cap on the watch for bubbles in the expansion tank take lid off leave the pipe under the coolant level the and look inside any bubbles will end up here,
yes I agree drastic to take head off at this stage

OK. So one of the dyes that detect gases would in theory work here. I'll check it out as I expect a few bubbles as I've probably not bled the system properly since removing the rad. Couldn't find the bleed screw to save my life but I'll rev engine to 2000 rpm till she splutter at which point I'd expect to see some air coming through. I know this isn't fool proof but I'm trying anything right now. If a good engine turns up I'll consider a straight swap but right now on with the diagnosis