Oil change

#1 by Dickie , Fri May 25, 2018 9:47 pm

Hi,
Planning on doing a bit of a service. I have a 2006 (old shape) Trojan, 2.5 diesel. I’m doing air filter, oil filter, fuel filter, oil change.
I was going to bang in some STP engine flush while I’m doing my oil change. I’m not sure what oil to use 15w 40? Will it make a massive difference and if so what?
Thanks


Dickie  
Dickie
Posts: 21
Date registered 07.03.2015


RE: Oil change

#2 by 123hotchef , Fri May 25, 2018 10:47 pm

5/30 or 10/30 would be my choice mate get decent filters too let the stp run in a hot engine for 20 minutes the drop it all whilst hot


AREA REPRESENTATIVE: South East England
'PYROCHEF'


 
123hotchef
Forum Legend
Posts: 34.226
Date registered 02.15.2012


RE: Oil change

#3 by AD , Sat May 26, 2018 6:42 am

And put a glove on cos the oil's bloody hot


 
AD
Posts: 4.731
Date registered 04.13.2014


RE: Oil change

#4 by krutly , Sat May 26, 2018 7:20 am

and fill the new fuel filter up with fresh diesel , it'll save you a ton of pumping the primer


SOUTHWEST ENGLAND - AREA REP
2003 4life now sold
2011 walkinshaw , lego mechanic


 
krutly
Forum Legend
Posts: 17.335
Date registered 10.21.2011


RE: Oil change

#5 by Dickie , Sat May 26, 2018 9:07 am

Thanks, I’m pretty rubbish when is comes to engines! What is the difference between the oil, viscosity? What difference is that going to make in my engine?

My bro blew his turbo up and he thought it was because of the oil he used.

I’m literally rubbish at this, so sorry if these are stupid questions. I have no dignity so feel free to go to town on my lack of knowledge


Dickie  
Dickie
Posts: 21
Date registered 07.03.2015


RE: Oil change

#6 by krutly , Sat May 26, 2018 2:18 pm

Cold start.
A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40.
A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50
A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30

At operating temperatures.
A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40.
A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40
A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40

my understanding is that you only really need one that starts with a 0w or 5w if you constantly run your truck in a cold environment so if you've snow and ice on the ground wherever you are get a lower number.

I've been of the mind that cheap fresh oil is ALWAYS better than old expensive oil
when I had my classic I did an oil change every 6 months and used whatever the cheapest oil I could get my hands on. This was usually 10/40 or 15/40 semi synthetic stuff from eurocarparts or halfords depending on who was cheapest at the time. I did 100,000 miles in my classic and never noticed any difference between different grades of oils.
When changing the fuel filter I usually bunged half a bottle of forte diesel treatment in (injector cleaner) and then topped it up with fresh diesel. Don't forget to screw the water trap sensor back in before filling though.
didn't find any difference over the years in fuel filters, they all seemed to do the same job the only thing I did notice was that the cheaper ones were sometimes harder to get off so assume the rubber seals were stuck more than the more expensive ones.
Oil filters I always went for genuine Mitsubishi ones as they were only about 11 quid from a main dealer and came with a new crush washer for the sump nut.Both fuel and oil filters I only did up hand tight and ran a smear of either diesel or oil round the rubber seal (depending on which you are doing) just to make sure the seals sat without distorting or kinking. If you undo the sump nut and drain the oil first then it'll be fully drained by the time you've changed the other filters. Don't forget you may need to move the container you're draining the oil into as when it first comes out it comes out at an angle but when there's less it'll run straight down. Draining it when warm will make it flow easier but as above , be aware hot oil and skin aren't always the best of friends. There is no easy way to get the old filter off without getting oil everywhere, it's just one of those things. I usually bunged my hand down straight from the top and unscrewed it that way, others remove the drivers side front wheel and get access to it from there, just personal preference I guess.
Air filters, don't get one from a main dealer as they want the thick end of 50 quid for one of those. I changed mine for a K&N element filter which I cleaned and oiled each time. 10 years down the line and my old truck is still running with the same filter. It cost me about 50 quid but has paid for itself over the years (and it sounds nicer).
I did an oil flush cleaning thing on my engine once and didn't notice any difference with what came out compared with normal. I have heard some people say that introducing any kind of 'cleaner' into your engine is not ideal for metal parts that are usually accustomed to oil. On the other hand I've heard others swear by how effective it is so the choice is yours really as to adding one of those kind of flush treatments. Personally I wouldn't bother in any vehicle I own now.
I never paid more than about 10 to 20 quid for oil (you need about 7 litres)
genuine oil filter was around 11 quid
fuel filter (quite often a blue print one) was around 8 quid
air filter cleaning spray and oil for the K&N was around 20 quid (and lasted 10 years)
So for around 40 quid a filter change I did it twice a year just to be on the safe side.
Be gentle with the bolts that hold the sump guards on as they shear off for a laugh , mine were only held on my 4 bolts in the end. From memory it was just the rear one that needed to come off when draining the oil.

anything else you need to know just shout as we were all new to this once


SOUTHWEST ENGLAND - AREA REP
2003 4life now sold
2011 walkinshaw , lego mechanic


 
krutly
Forum Legend
Posts: 17.335
Date registered 10.21.2011


RE: Oil change

#7 by paulw , Sat May 26, 2018 8:40 pm

Quote: krutly wrote in post #6
Cold start.
A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40.
A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50
A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30

At operating temperatures.
A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40.
A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40
A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40

my understanding is that you only really need one that starts with a 0w or 5w if you constantly run your truck in a cold environment so if you've snow and ice on the ground wherever you are get a lower number.

I've been of the mind that cheap fresh oil is ALWAYS better than old expensive oil
when I had my classic I did an oil change every 6 months and used whatever the cheapest oil I could get my hands on. This was usually 10/40 or 15/40 semi synthetic stuff from eurocarparts or halfords depending on who was cheapest at the time. I did 100,000 miles in my classic and never noticed any difference between different grades of oils.
When changing the fuel filter I usually bunged half a bottle of forte diesel treatment in (injector cleaner) and then topped it up with fresh diesel. Don't forget to screw the water trap sensor back in before filling though.
didn't find any difference over the years in fuel filters, they all seemed to do the same job the only thing I did notice was that the cheaper ones were sometimes harder to get off so assume the rubber seals were stuck more than the more expensive ones.
Oil filters I always went for genuine Mitsubishi ones as they were only about 11 quid from a main dealer and came with a new crush washer for the sump nut.Both fuel and oil filters I only did up hand tight and ran a smear of either diesel or oil round the rubber seal (depending on which you are doing) just to make sure the seals sat without distorting or kinking. If you undo the sump nut and drain the oil first then it'll be fully drained by the time you've changed the other filters. Don't forget you may need to move the container you're draining the oil into as when it first comes out it comes out at an angle but when there's less it'll run straight down. Draining it when warm will make it flow easier but as above , be aware hot oil and skin aren't always the best of friends. There is no easy way to get the old filter off without getting oil everywhere, it's just one of those things. I usually bunged my hand down straight from the top and unscrewed it that way, others remove the drivers side front wheel and get access to it from there, just personal preference I guess.
Air filters, don't get one from a main dealer as they want the thick end of 50 quid for one of those. I changed mine for a K&N element filter which I cleaned and oiled each time. 10 years down the line and my old truck is still running with the same filter. It cost me about 50 quid but has paid for itself over the years (and it sounds nicer).
I did an oil flush cleaning thing on my engine once and didn't notice any difference with what came out compared with normal. I have heard some people say that introducing any kind of 'cleaner' into your engine is not ideal for metal parts that are usually accustomed to oil. On the other hand I've heard others swear by how effective it is so the choice is yours really as to adding one of those kind of flush treatments. Personally I wouldn't bother in any vehicle I own now.
I never paid more than about 10 to 20 quid for oil (you need about 7 litres)
genuine oil filter was around 11 quid
fuel filter (quite often a blue print one) was around 8 quid
air filter cleaning spray and oil for the K&N was around 20 quid (and lasted 10 years)
So for around 40 quid a filter change I did it twice a year just to be on the safe side.
Be gentle with the bolts that hold the sump guards on as they shear off for a laugh , mine were only held on my 4 bolts in the end. From memory it was just the rear one that needed to come off when draining the oil.

anything else you need to know just shout as we were all new to this once


blimey sir Kurt, You should change your name to manual!! respect to you guv so much knowledge, oohh, what are you like on landies!!


did have warrior, but crossed over to disco 2.
Thought I could see light at the end of the tunnel, but it was somebody with a torch bringing more work!
Landies don't leak oil, they just sweat


 
paulw
Posts: 5.813
Date registered 10.06.2011


RE: Oil change

#8 by Dickie , Mon May 28, 2018 11:38 am

All done thanks, I drafted my brother in (chickens way out I know). It turns over a bit before starting. I’m hoping a good run out will resolve that. If not I’ll be in touch..


Dickie  
Dickie
Posts: 21
Date registered 07.03.2015


RE: Oil change

#9 by AD , Mon May 28, 2018 4:08 pm

Quote: Dickie wrote in post #8
All done thanks, I drafted my brother in (chickens way out I know). It turns over a bit before starting. I’m hoping a good run out will resolve that. If not I’ll be in touch..

Could be something simple and easy to change like the glow plugs,do you know when they where last changed.


 
AD
Posts: 4.731
Date registered 04.13.2014


   

Sidney Powell responds after Trump campaign says she is not part of legal team:
wheel spacers

Xobor Create your own Forum with Xobor