Hi, I've a 53 plate warrior, fly by wire type (i think) the EGR valve unit makes a high pitch scream from 2000rpm upwards (like so loud people stop and stare) I've blanked the EGR at the exhaust manifold end, Still makes noise, Blanked other end, Still makes noise, remove the rubber vacuum hose between EGR and turbo and the noise is gone! but this also means the wastegate or actuator (the device on the turbo at the other end of the hose) no longer moves either?? If this is the wastegate and it no longer works is this going to damage the turbo through over boost?

Also now the engine managment light has come on (cos i've been messing i guess) will it stay on till i get mitsi main dealer to cancel it?

Many thanks!

Dave

can't help you with the first part to your question but normally if you turn ignition off and wait 30 seconds then turn it back on the engine management light will go out ......... but ......... expect it to come back on very soon unless you've cured whatever caused it in the first place. Someone with a codereader may be able to help you more with this. Also all the clever people log on later in the evening too

Are you sure it's the egr valve making the noise? (not the turbo?)
If you have blanked off the egr at both ends then you could try removing it completly. Re-connect the turbo pipe and see if the noise is still there.

I've put a recon turbo in it this week as the old one had loads of play in it, so the turbo it'self is fine i think. The noise comes from the diaphragm device (egr valve?) sat on top at the inlet manifold end (if that makes sense).
I've blanked off both ends so the exhaust gas cant pass through the intercooler and the inlet manifold cant draw air in from the valve (egr valve?) that sits on top so the only connection left is a vacuum hose which goes to what i belive to be the turbo actuator (got 2 bolts at one end against a cam to set it). I'll try to work out which bit is which for sure and take a photo!

Is this device at the rear end of the inlet manifold by any chance ? sort of 3/4 s of the way back..

Hi Lez T, My thoughts were that it was the EGR at the front as even with the 2 blanking plates in place the valve still opperates when the revs are above 2000rpm, the black diaphragm think inside moves back then when you drop the revs it comes back. Having traced the vac hose from the actuator device back up it goes into the top of the inlet manifold at the back on the drivers side, now... it looks like the nipple that the pipe goes onto may have broken off and someones stuffer a thin copper pipe into it as a bodge, So could it be a air leak here upsetting things?? might try to sort that in the morn and if not look at the egr valve!

EGR vac pipe should be running to one of the two solenoids at the rear of the top of the inlet manifold, the pipe that comes out of the manifold itself goes to the boost pressure sensor fitted at the rear of the intercooler over the engine.. the connector on the manifold, is just a pipe stub sticking out of the manifold.

Many thanks, I'm begining to wonder if the pipes have been swapped about or put on in the wrong order, clearly someone had been messing about in that area before i got the truck so perhaps i should check whats going where!

Vacuum piping diagram in the Workshop area mate..

Excellent! This is getting easier with all your help. Out of interest what is the device you mentioned in post no #5? and does the FBW engine/turbo have a wastegate/dumpvalve?


Cheers, Dave

The one towards the rear of the manifold is the throttle body, has a small vac pipe towards the rear of it and a sensor in the side just over the rocker cover ( from memory, could be off a bit)..
FBW has no dump or wastegate as the turbo is VV ( Variable Venturi) and has no need for it, as the boost is cleverly controlled by reducing or increasing the amount of By-pass flow in side the turbo. There is a ring of 'keyhole' like slots that is moved across holes inside the turbo to allow more or less boost through..

If you've already blanked the egr then as billy said just remove it completely and blank the vacuum pipe that feeds it, and that completely removes it from the equation, while your at it throw the EGR cooler away and bypass it as this may prevent future overheating problems problems.
This galley file shows a few pics of the EGR system

g7-EGR-Valve-amp-Cooler-Removal.html

Many thanks for all the advice. after much consideration i decided to just take a different bit apart each day and clean and re assemble (and if i get stuck...ask you lot!) so i took the throttle body off, cleaned the faces and gaskets, re assembled and hey presto the noise has gone, poor gasket seal i think as i had to use fine sand paper to remove resin like deposit from the metal face so the gasket could seal!! Bonus, my truck now runs a treat :-)

Methodical approach, glad you've solved the problem.