Stumbled into a huge galvanizing plant near me yesterday. They used to do the galvanising for the Royal Ordinance. So I asked him how much to galvanise the chassis....£250 for the galvanising and £150 to have it sand blasted initially " We do it all the time for land rovers" It got me thinking! Ive got plenty of time on my hands and the use of a barn.....is it feasible..is it a massive job??? Nik

In terms of time, yes. You will have to strip E V E R Y T H I N G off the chassis, from the cab to the exhaust. Disconnect and remove all the wiring, axles, etc. At the end of the stripdown you should be left with just a frame on a support dolly. And afterwards, you'll need to put it all back together again, with the odd drilling/tapping out of over coated holes and threadings. To say nothing of the marking, boxing up and pictures to put it all together again. Entirely feasible, just be prepared to endure a looong period of getting it all sorted.

yes do it man I reakon a week to strip it all and label it properly

Would the cabin come off easily , with the doors, wings etc...Could you leave the bonnet attached to the body? Would you need to remove any windows? Mmmmm...starting to lose interest! Nik

The bonnet's a 5 min job for two, coz ya need it off to deal with the engine disconnection etc.
Windows? Always, as the thing can flex during lifting and a trip for a new bonded windscreen, plus any other windows will be a painful payment. You could just roll the windows in the doors down and disconnect the whole door in one. The tub will be easy, but there's the mountain of wiring/pipework that runs along the chassis as well. Fuel Tank, brake lines, it's not a small job.

i think if u lift the cab through the windows a b and c pillars u wont need to remove doors and windows

Or get 8 burly mates to lift the fecker, I got 10 feeble ones and we managed ok. I did have the slam panel off too though.
Go for it, £400 for the lot wish my chassis had been worth the effort don't know how well galvanizing does on rotted steel tho, as much rot inside the chassis as on the outside.
Which model year do you have? if it's a classic, be prepared to replace a lot of what you take off.
Aye how thick would the galv need to be, to become structural then? lol

Tapping out all the holes is a headfxxk too.

I have previously re-chassied a Land a Rover and know lots of folk who have also done chassis swaps with their land rovers, and if your very handy on the spanner’s and have a access to a ramp and a full set of tools then it’s not insurmountable but still very time consuming and costly as you’ll end up replacing lots of parts during the job including every pipe, clip, bush, etc and you’d be as well splitting the box and doing a clutch and lots of other jobs at the same time.
However if your barn doesn’t have a ramp or forklift and your doing it on the floor with basic tools it’ll be much more of a mission.

Before even considering it you need to fully evaluate your chassis, which has to be in very good condition. If its scabby, pitted or needing welding then the blasting process will likely find more bits and you could end up in a world of pain. If galvanising a used chassis you also really need to get it acid dipped first and not simply blasted, as most galvanisers only have a pickling tank and don’t acid strip. As such the paint, coatings, and contaminants on the inside of box sections won’t be removed and the galve won’t adhere, which completely defeats the purpose as the rot from the inside out, you’ll also need to drill drain holes in any closed box sections, or they risk exploding in the tank.

Land Rover series and defenders are appreciating in value and are worth doing, however relatively few get their original chassis galved (unless it’s in very good condition or has been well restored), and opt for a brand new one and tight L200 isn’t worth it unless it’s relatively new, and / or you intend on keeping it forever.

I take your points re rotting from the inside out....It was a good idea though !!

I've used a 90% zinc cold galv spray, not anywhere near as effective as hot dip, but far far less work and probably the best option of all the spray / brush options