Quote: Daviemtc wrote in post #24

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Stupid question but Is this the original 4D56 block? looks like you have extra waterways on the manifold side that i don't have on the block I've got here or on the milners short motor. looks like the gasket is blocking them too.

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It WAS a stupid question. I was looking at the holes on the head and got a wee bit mixed up. Forgot about the hole in mine that all the sense pours out of DOH!
Am awa ta boil ma ain heid.

Well cleaned everything off, rubbed the block and head down with wet and dry and a block, no signs of warping, then checked with a straight edge all looks good. I can’t see any signs of cracking on the face of the head or below the rockers but as mentioned here it could still be buggered.
Only thing I can see is some corrosion on number four but it’s contained within the piston area as you can see on the photos, this is the back of the head where it was leaking.
Nothing seems bad.
However just been reminded that when I last did the head I reused the bolts because I couldn’t get new ones in time. Maybe a possible cause of the gasket failure??
It’s ready to go back together.
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looks like k seal or similar too me id be flushing the system through properly include the matrix and remove the block plug

Re-using old bolts isn't the best option no, be sure to get the bolt holes as clean as possible tho. Any shite left in them will surely affect torque settings eh.?

as for the hynadi bit I took a hynadai head off of a L200 a few months back and replaced it with a FIA on first hyandi head i have seen.

I’ve got a bottle of flush for when it’s back together and I’ve flushed the block with hose. I’ve scraped the bolt holes and blasted them out with wd then dried em so hopefully that’s done. Going to put it back together tomorrow and see how it goes. If it works I’ve saved £400 on a new head, if it doesn’t I’ve lost £90 and have to do it again with a new head so kind of worth the risk, because let’s be honest who doesn’t love being up to their elbows in grease taking there engine apart!!

did u remove the block plug? I always pull the matrix hoses off and flush that through too both directions

No, I’ve flushed it through the rad hoses. So do I need to pull the block plug too?

ideally yeh because its the lowest point and all the crapola sits there, did u take the stat out to flush?

14mm socket its fooking tight up behind and below the turbo is the drain plug.

Thanks for that I’ll sort that tomorrow before rebuilding. I took the stat out think it was gunned up because it wouldn’t move till I cleaned it scraped it and still have to boil it to death in a pan to get to open, I was surprised because it didn’t have the small hole in it.

jiggle valve? cheap ones dont

Quote: 123hotchef wrote in post #38

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jiggle valve? cheap ones dont

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nah! u can drill a wee hole in if it dont have a valve! its just to allow a tiny bit of circulaton should also be installed with valve at 1 o clock poistion IIRC

Ah! Aye my old man ( who was a pretty shit hot plant fitter in his time ) told me they were to let any trapped air passed the stat just like this:-Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
ergo any stats fitted without a jiggle valve wouldn't have this ability and could theoretically contribute to overheating.

Well it’s all back together, oiled up and water filled, it pains me to admit this but rushing to fire it up in failing light I forgot to put the starter motor back in from locking up the crank pulley. It activated the starter got a lovely noise and a little flash. Now of course with the starter bolted in all the dash lights come as normal glow plugs etc no warnings and just a loud relay type click and nothing. The batteries fine cause I’ve checked it and jumped it. Thinking I’ve blown a fuse or something. But I cannot find a starter fuse.
Numpty mistake I know but has anyone any ideas?

I think in the engine bay fuse box

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D would be your relay and 11 would be your fuse .

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Big blue box relay. Clear blue above it should be your fuse.
I may be wrong here but doubtless a correction will be along shortly.

Yep looked in there and all fuses test ok as does relay. I’ve jumped the starter direct and the solenoid jumps ok but the motor won’t spin, I’m thinking I’ve goosed it.

Yep looked in there and all fuses test ok as does relay. I’ve jumped the starter direct and the solenoid jumps ok but the motor won’t spin, I’m thinking I’ve goosed it.

Quote: Daviemtc wrote in post #41

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Ah! Aye my old man ( who was a pretty shit hot plant fitter in his time ) told me they were to let any trapped air passed the stat just like this:-
ergo any stats fitted without a jiggle valve wouldn't have this ability and could theoretically contribute to overheating.

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Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

You can pick one up for about £20- £50 second hand ,
Or I found these advertising on fleabuy:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/directautoele...=p2047675.l2559

Manchester Auto Electrical Ltd T/A Direct Auto Electrical
derek martin
30 duncan st
Salford
Greater Manchester
m5 3sq
United Kingdom
Email:info@directautoelectrical.co.uk

Brand new starter with12month guarantee for £87.95, looks close to you.

Cheers matey that’s just up the road.

Well I’ve put a new starter on it, tested off the car and it spins and throws. I’ve tested the fuses and the relays, all bell out ok. But nothing when I turn the key. I’ve run out of ideas now?

Have you tested the main power feed cable to the starter? (on the top pin) is the connector good and shiny? any visible cable damage or swelling? .and the solenoid socket? they can get pretty full of shite (little blackplug,) although if the solenoid is throwing out this one is probably ok.