Hi , wondering how easy it is to replace the complete lower arm on 2003 single cab 1200. Ive messed uo the bracket holding the anti roll bar and have orderd new arm and parts so i can refit roll bar with all new bushes etc but the bolts look particularily nasty to shift and im not sure what the clearance to remove the ball joint is going to be. I dont want to remove more than i have to . Not sure if there is a how to on here if so maybe someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks

just remoce the arb simples!

Do you know if there is enough clearance to remove the arm at the ball joint end without removing anything else ? It looks pretty close to the drive shaft but I was hoping once the joint was split it would wriggle out ok . I'd like to have s go at this myself if possible but don't want to mess up and have my garage clear up the mess so to speak .the bolts chassis end look pretty nasty but I have ordered new ones in advance . Thanks

Imnormally remove the whole knuckle assembly mate, brake caliper off tie it up break the ball joints, remove the clip off the end of the shaft, with the knuckle/hub off its easy.

Ok thanks. One last question tho... the rear mounting bolt appears to be hidden by the torsion bar. The nut is visible but head seems hidden up do i have to unbolt or remove this also ?

the splined part that holds the torsion bar into the lower arm unbolts if i rember correctly, u will probably have to wind the tension of the torsion bars and pull them out

Ok thanks for all your help on this . I'll take a good look underneath and weigh it up before I start in bolting everything. Im trying to teach myself as I go along and this site has been really useful in the past on jobs. Unfortunately I don't know enough to help other members when they post questions on here so it feels kinda one sided but thanks again

Have a look at this it ain't fantastic but will give you a good idea what's involved..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXUEC6pKvzs

just holla if you get stuck

Im sure I will get stuck , those bolts look pretty tough but the video was a great help and answered several questions I can see how the hub comes off and I'm hoping to remove mine with the ball joint still attached to the arm to save unbolting the 4 bolts .

Hi well not long into the project and slight hitch already ! I followed the video advice and rather than fiddle with the split pin on the upper ball joint I tried wrench it off with the nut. Now his worked perfectly whereas mine moved slightly jammed up solid and the ball joint is turning rather than un doing. Im wondering if there is a way of stopping this but can't see anything obvious. Looking like I may have to replace the upper arm too or at least the ball joint. Definitely will persevere with the split pins in future

why would you not remove the split pin before atempting to undo the nut? that baffles me.....
remove the split pin then remove the nut that is what a split pin is desinged for to stop the nut coming undone, kinda simple common sense.

maybe take it to the garage.

Aye that is indeed what they for, I did say "it ain't fantastic but will give you a good idea what's involved.." i presumed a bit of common sense would be involved too , wonder if he made it to Bulgaria??lol

Well I'm definitely not going to try burning out the old bushes at least not in the truck anyway . My garage is short staffed at present and couldn't help out so I'll have to keep going now so hopefully I'll learn a bit on the way

Hi , well after some fiddling the ball joints are all undone and knuckle is off the truck, id like to remove this drivers side driveshaft completely to give good access to the rear bolt on the lower arm especially if i have to heat it up. Can anyone advise how easy this is, not sure if this just pulls out complete or whether it needs unbolting. The diagrams ive seen show a snap ring like i removed at the front end but cant see how id get to it if there is. Ive had a lot of people warn that the bush in the chassis is going to be a pig to shift but ill cross that bridge when i get to it. Thanks in advance

Just four bolts to the flange on the inner cv joint , it just comes off easy enough.

Great thanks for that

Need a bit more help with this arm replacement if possible. Everything is almost ready for assembly but struggling with the metal sleeve in the chassis . The rubber bush came out ok but the sleeve is rusted solid. I've carefully removed the outer lip one side to hopefully free up one end but it hasn't budged. I'm befitting milners poly ones and it's been suggested to cut length ways with a hack saw. This is going to be pretty laborious but worth a go . Has anyone else got any other ideas I could try please. Thanks

On the Landrover, two bits of tubing similar length to the bush. One tube same diameter as hole on one side, one bigger than hole on other side. 2 plates of metal with 16mm holes in either side (old strimmer blades), M16 threaded bar through the middle, bolt either end and tighten, driving old bush out. Still didn't work with one, so we ended up cutting it. Not sure if you have the access for this method though, and you've got to have the bits lying around to make it worthwhile.

I like the idea of old strimmer blades I was looking about for something suitable but ended up cutting it with a hacksaw and driving it out afters . To be honest the job had been really challenging for me and many a time wish I hadn't started it but the arms back on and going back together again. Unfortunately I didn't mark the torsion bar before I removed it so this could be hit and miss . I'll get my garage to check heights at mot time unless there's a simple way to do it . I thought I'd better get the hub back on and attached before I go adjusting it up or I won't be able to move it

Nice one - at least you shouldn't have to worry about the bushes ever again.

Mine is smoking like a chimney again , as soon as that's sorted it'll be lower arm bushes for me too, well done fella. according to the manual on here the torsion bars should have a factory paint mark on them, the anchor arms should have punch marks.

That's worth knowing I'll have a good look if not it'll be trial and error. It'll be good to get back on the road again. I only use it for my own stuff to shift but my god it's been useful. The amount of people who ask if i want to sell it always surprise me too but I suppose u don't see too many single cabs about