Hello everyone, I think I may have posted this problem in the incorrect area, this is the thread so far, and thank you to Heathen for his input. All suggestions gratefully received, it's beginning to drive me mad!

Comment by Peter60
- Today 7:48 pmdelete
Many thanks for your all your guidance Heathen. I am still trying to find out how to start a thread, I'm new to all this and I couldn't see a way of doing it, I did find an email address and posed the question as to how it can be done, so hopefully someone will get back to me.

Day 3! I double checked all the vacuum pipes and all seemed to be OK. The actuator was not working when the engine was idling which led me to check to see if there was any vacuum in the line, there was none. I then connected the actuator directly to the vacuum pump and it worked fine, showing I think that the actuator is OK. It all pointed to the solenoid again so I tested it by connecting a direct 12 volt supply to it, it opened and closed nicely and the actuator worked I think as it should. I then checked the voltage on the supply to the solenoid. It showed an instant 13.??? ( it was very quick) and it then settled on 0.49 volts and remained there. It seems to me that the problem lies with the power supply to the solenoid. Heathen, please, please your comments?

Comment by Heathen
- Today 11:10 am

First off make sure the piping is definitely right for both solenoids. The other thing that can cause this is a leak in the actuator diaphragm. Easiest to use a hand vacuum pump to test for any leaks. I have also had this problem before when using a cheap turbo solenoid - almost like they can't keep up with the duty cycle.

Also, you'll probably get answers quicker if you start a thread on the main board rather than doing it as a blog entry. good luck ;)

Comment by Peter60
- Today 1:07 amdelete
Hi Heathen, I hope you're still around or anyone else that can help?
Update, I have now replaced the black and brown solenoids along with the turbo boost pressure sensor, the MAP sensor and all the vacuum piping. On the test drive I thought it was fixed but alas 5 miles down the road the EML came on! It was still holding back on accelerating but seemed to be driving much better. I did notice that the turbo actuator arm when idling was going backwards and forwards and I thought it should be against the bottom screw when the engine is off and when idling it should be against the top screw. This is was certainly not doing. Any suggestions out there? As always any help gratefully received. Thanks.

Comment by Peter60
- Sun Apr 04, 2021 8:59 pmdelete
Hi Heathen, many thanks. I'm not sure how to test them so I'll just replace them.

Comment by Heathen
- Sun Apr 04, 2021 10:15 am

First, test the brown and black solenoids on the intake manifold. Make sure all the vacuum tubes are connected properly and don't have leaks.

After changing the parts over have the error codes cleared? If not what comes up now? Did you use a genuine mitsi solenoid or a cheap ebay one?

I doubt it is the electronics -when there is a problem in the turbo system (solenoid unplugged etc) the ecu just shuts the whole thing down, so it makes it tricky to diagnose problems. Did you measure the voltage across the solenoid with it plugged in or unplugged? If the latter, the reading won't mean much; if the former, you would expect a lower (averaged) voltage as the solenoid is being opened and shut continually to provide the correct vacuum at the actuator.

With the engine off, put the hand pump on the vacuum source side of each solenoid in turn and check that they hold vacuum - if they don't you've got the input/output on the wrong way round. With the engine running measure the vacuum going into the t-piece that feeds them and make sure you've got a good vacuum there and no leaks somewhere else in the system - should be around 53kPa and solid, unwavering reading.

@Heathen Very much off topic here Rob but that's a cracking looking hound you got there on your new avatar, is it a full Grey or Lurcher? I fekin love sighthoonds man.

@Daviemtc She's very cool - greyhound/staffy cross. Lost the previous dog just before christmas. She'd spent the start of her life chained up in a paddock and has since been getting passed around from various owners who didn't have the time for her so she has a few character flaws ;) . Some more pics here if you're interested: https://photos.app.goo.gl/CRk1sjzvbjmMM3yE9

Hi Heathen, as always your guidance is very much appreciated. I have loads to report but before I do can you tell me which of the solenoid vacuum points on the black and brown units is supposed to be the source side (inner or outer)?

I've done some more research and it appears that the source side of both solenoids are the outer nipples, please correct me if I'm wrong? My BIG news yesterday was that after reading your last reply I thought I would just change over the 2 vacuum pipes on the brown solenoid. amazingly the actuator went to the full position and stayed there. I then took it for a drive and for about 30 minutes it drove like it was new, with no EML on, I thought it was fixed! Unfortunately the EML reappeared and again it became reluctant to accelerate properly. The fault codes after this were 41 and 52. Seems I may be back to replacing the solenoids again? Any advise on where to get a genuine one from? I have messaged a few suppliers that appear to have "genuine" Parts but when I double check they confirm that they are not!

In answer to your previous questions..........
The replacement solenoids came from Autodily, it had a 2 year warranty and the reviews weren't bad. It cost 29.99.
The error codes did clear but I'm now back to 41 & 52.
The voltage measured across the solenoid was measured with the plug off.
Unfortunately I don't have a hand pump (I'll have to get one if necessary) the best I can do at the moment is suck as hard as I can and they seemed fine, I know that this is not ideal.
If I connect one of the other vacuum pipes directly to the actuator it holds the actuator where it should on idle.

Sorry I didn't get on yesterday.

Quote: Peter60 wrote in post #6

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it appears that the source side of both solenoids are the outer nipples

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Quote: Peter60 wrote in post #6

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30 minutes it drove like it was new

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Quote: Peter60 wrote in post #6

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I thought I would just change over the 2 vacuum pipes on the brown solenoid

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Quote: Heathen wrote in post #8

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Sorry I didn't get on yesterday.

You deserve a day off!

[quote="Peter60"|p424346]it appears that the source side of both solenoids are the outer nipples

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Well, thats good then! Is the arm moving properly now or just sat on the top screw all the time?

I've only looked at it when idling and it just sits on the top screw. I will be reordering hopefully a genuine Mitsubishi set of new solenoids.