Hi All

I'm new to the forum and also new to L200s. My particular L200 is Series 3 K74 on a 53 plate, also has a GKN over drive unit in place of the front prop section. Bought it with next to no MOT on it back in April and been working my way through repairs to get it ready for MOT. In all that time the engine has been a runner no issue other than the ignition lock (key didn't turn in the barrel but that is sorted by fitting a different ignition lock and using the existing barrel assembly and key to drive the immobiliser until such times as I get the fresh keys programmed to the vehicle).

So, traced the oil leaks it had, rocker cover and behind the timing belt covers. Rocker cover gasket sorted the leak from the top. Pulled the rad out, alternator off for a clean out and pull the covers off the belts. Changed the timing and balance shaft belts and all 4 shaft seals. Timing is spot on, wound the engine over several times to make sure (old habits die hard), all reassembled and torqued up, rad back in along with new coolant.

Engine started no issue, let it idle for a minute or two then revved it a little then switched off. Checked a few things to make sure there were no leaks then re-started it. Fired straight up, idled for a minute or two then revved it up, OK at 2000 rpm but missed/fluttered a bit at around 2500 rpm, but still ok at lower rpm, switched it off. There was nothing showing on the fuel gauge and I knew it was extremely low so off I went armed with a 2 gallon can ( that's 10 litres to the younger guys) bought a can full and put it in the fuel tank.

Turned the key, she cranks over fast enough but won't start, cracked off three injector pipe nuts and cranked again... nothing, dry. So we are not delivering any fuel to the injectors. Pumped the hand primer on top of the filter and that goes solid after three or four pumps as expected. Pulled the front end out again, belt covers off, All the timing is still spot on and the crank sensor hasn't been hit buy anything.

Anybody got any bright ideas here I go from here, is there any testing procedures that I can run through to check components.

Currently don't have a manual for the vehicle because I can't make up my mind which will be right for my truck (so many to choose from).

I been around vehicles (mainly trucks) all my working life (past 21 years as technical specialist for Mercedes Benz Trucks UK, 13 years before that in a dealership so I know what a spanner is), I can't see that I have got anything wrong in the repair so far, looks as though something has given up the ghost.

Oh, one thing that isn't working is the oil pressure light, doesn't light up when you turn the ignition on, it's the switch that is knackered, remove the wire from the switch and ground it out the light comes on. would this have any bearing on the engine not running ( I know Rover SDI 3500 fuel pump wouldn't run until oil pressure came up). I don't know if it was working when I first had it running after reassembly
from changing the belts etc.

Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards

Stuart

Hi All

Quick up-date, I have noticed this morning that the glow plug/preheat warning light isn't working either, nor is the relay/solenoid clunk heard as it was before this failure (all the other dash warning lamps appear to be working). I have tested the fuses in the box under the bonnet, they are good and have power to them as well.

Is there a page on here for the vehicle wiring diagrams?

Kind regards

Stuart

Does the engine management light come on and then go off as it should?

Did you have it running steadily after changing the key and barrel? Sounds like an IMMO issue to be honest

Hi Guys

thanks for the replies.

@Heathen, are you reffering to the yellow light with the engine symbol? comes on with the ignition and went out when the engine started and ran. Currently stays on as the engine won't start! Is it suppose to go out after a time before you turn the key to the start position?

@Saudirick, when I bought the truck the single key wouldn't turn in the barrel, The previous owner said the previous owner had taken the steering locking pawl out of the lock mechanism and wired up a couple of additional switches for ignition and starter. When I got it home and took it apart that is exactly what I found. So, on ebay I found a steering lock with 2 keys and a pair of door lock barrels all matching. Fitted the door barrels no worries. I then changed the steering lock assembly on the column. This, as you probably know has 3 wiring connectors, one for the ignition barrel, one for the IMMO reader coil and the other is for the key reminder (I think). Anyway I connected up the barrel and key reminder from the new lock assemble to the cab wiring harness. using the original lock assemble with the key cable tied into place (to stop it falling out) I plugged it to the cab wiring loom, then secured the old lock assembly up out the way and tidied the wiring routing up with cable ties. It all worked a treat. Did this last May and it has worked ever since ( not driven the vehicle but started and shunted around my drive numerous times.


As I wrote first off. after putting it all back together after changing belts, seals and refitting the rad etc it started and ran a treat though missing or fluttering at rpm over 2500. Stopped it check levels and leaks, restarted easy and ran smooth and responsive up to 2500/3000 rpm. as long as you didn't rev it above 2500/3000 it sounded perfect. It never has shown much on the fuel gauge so I went and got a couple of gallon in a can and poured it in the tank (now show just under quarter). I let it stand for a few more minutes doing other stuff then went to start it again, all it did was crank. I cracked an injector and cranked it again but nothing comes out of the injector pipe. I've since removed the rad and covers from the front of the engine to check the timing and belts are good and that I hadn't damaged the crank position sensor, all is good.

I've checked the fuses in the box under the bonnet, they are all good and power to the input side of the engine fuses.

What I have also noticed is the glow plug warning light doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on, neither do you hear the pre-heat solenoid drop out circa 20/30 seconds after switching the ignition on. I'm guessing this is linked to the none start issue, do you know if I'm right or not.

What I'm looking for here is guidance and/or wiring diagrams so I can start checking circuits and maybe some test routines with nominal values.

I've looked on line for diagrams and workshop manuals, all that seems to come up is stuff for sale on Ebay but none of the adverts for discs or downloads fill me with confidence that they are what i want or are for my model of L200.

I've tried opening the manuals on this Forum but they appear to be corrupt as they forward you to some other unrelated site. One of the other members has kindly posted up all the literature he has but this hasn't helped with the issue in hand.

Any help with any of the above would be greatly appreciate.

Kind regards

Stuart

Hey @Fatbaz . The manuals are available here: https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/23923...orkshop-manual/, but wiring manuals are not included. Yes the orange engine light - it should go out after about 5 seconds after turning on the ignition. If the light stays on there are error codes to read. They can be read without a reader by following these instructions: Read your fault codes.

Hi Heathen

Thank you for the up-date on my issue, you are a star. I'll have a look at this a little later.

Kind regards

Stuart

@Fatbaz Hi Stuart. have a look at this it may be of nominal help...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oeMy6x9ftU
Davie

Up-date on the none start issue. Got some time yesterday to start looking at the issue, it came to light that not only was the glow warning light not working, neither was the check engine light coming on. Made a call to a guy I know (used to work for Mitsi back in the day) and he advised looking at the man power relay located in the passenger footwell. Eventually narrowed this down to the little black box with E8T101 printed on it. checked for power at each of the 4 terminals with a meter, had power on 3 of them which doesn't make sense, anyway as I was trying to unplug it from the wiring harness there was a clunk in the engine back that sounded exactly like the pre-heat solenoid. I reach across the car and turn the key and we started right up. Stopped it on the key and tried restarting nothing doing, would only crank as before. Gave the relay a resounding flick, turn the key and started instantly.

Pulled the relay off the plug to find a lot of verdigris around the base of the terminal, tapped ang knocked the relay about a bit and all has been well since. Not going to risk it though, I shall get a new one.

Anyway thank you to those that sent me links to the various manuals and fault code documents, these will no doubt be very useful in future. he only thing missing is the actual wiring diagrams for tracing circuitry which is very useful when diagnosing issues or modifying the wiring i.e. making it so the rear locker can be used in both 2 and 4 wheel drive and working the front axle actuator independently so that 2low can be used for slow speed or shunting heavy trailers.

Kind regards

Stuart