I have just ordered and had delivered 5 new windows for the back of my house as the existing ones are falling out!! 😳

I have had them made in white on the inside and green on the outside....

I have fitted windows previously into a new extension about 10 years ago so should be ok fitting them,

I seem to remember when you fit the glass into a hinged frame you have to weight/pack the glass so as to transfer the glass weight diagonally towards the bottom corner of the hinge side? Is this right??

I'm sure I could have squeezed another years life out of the existing windows! What do you think?? This is the better of the 5 coming out

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Don't know but sounds right scientifically 😳

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Toe and heal it's called mate

@ronniecabers

Quote: 123hotchef wrote in post #4

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Toe and heal it's called mate

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Ha he now u know how to do it then

I think I knew how to do it just didn't remember the name 👍

Feel sorry for all the soon to be homeless wood worms!

Killer

Yep ...toe and heal .... or failing that Kurt says silicone!

Any other tips of the trade?

I hope I measured them right.....

erm .. make sure the frames are plumb...

If you've got externall cills , make sure you bed them down on silicone and then a bead of silicone on the back edge of the frame, where it meets the cill , before you screw it down . Before putting window on the cill make sure you have no way any water can ingress into the cavity in the bottom , wee usually put a thick line of silicone , when usin cills, in the area where the cill meets the cavity. Fixing foam and screws , not just one ! , fixing foam acts as an insulator too.... screws are always more secure than foam .... I'm sure there's more , they'll come to me in a minute...possibly! oh always try and get the frame behind either the internal or external reveal, even if its only a couple of mm. another thing taking the old out .... go slowly and carefully , less potential for damage to your reveals. If you have visible screws in the old wooden frames its easy , if not , it could be nailed , or strapped . Straps are Bstards and have the potential to take the whole internal plaster off, a good trick is to cut about 200mm from the base of the frame at 45 deg, then abnout 25mm above at the opposite 45 deg to get a wedge of wood out , you can the use a pry bar and carefuly pry the wood , if thereveal s start to move chances are you have straps!

When you toe and heal the side sashes don't forget to silicone the side packers otherwise they will fall out with vibration when shutting sash
Level frame,plumb frame and square frame corner to corner.
Screw frames 150mm from corners then no more than 600mm in between.
Be careful when putting glass on bottom packers,if the packer gets in between the two panes and you hammer the bead in it may well crack the glass.
I always silicone the frame then put a quad or box mould over the silicone,much neater and no sign of silicone which always discolours.
Don't use solvent on the outer green coating as this will discolour it and void your guarantee.
Super glue the end caps to the sill,iv'e seen umpteen were people silicone then on only to be knocked off when cleaning.


Hope this helps


AD

Yep was warned about the solvent and the colour, nice one thanks 👍

I've been double glazing for 15 years..I can't add more to what's been said already. Toe and healing is there for a reason..all pvc doors and window side opening sashes will drop with time..make sure they are packed correctly.
Any problems just ask..

Daz

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Just thought I'd post this to help if anybody else is reading this and wondering

Quote: Warriorbez wrote in post #18

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Just thought I'd post this to help if anybody else is reading this and wondering

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On that note , you should always use packers that span both panes of glass too , as overtime they will sink into the sealant .... replaced many a sealed unit that this has happened to....

These have a metal reinforcing in the frames

Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #20

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On that note , you should always use packers that span both panes of glass too , as overtime they will sink into the sealant .... replaced many a sealed unit that this has happened to....

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ERM make sure lintels are fitted above the windows as this can cause problems later on as the brickwork may drop and cause pressure on window which will bow frame.




AD

Good point as the cottage is 1850's so probably be wood!

Quote: ronniecabers wrote in post #20

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On that note , you should always use packers that span both panes of glass too , as overtime they will sink into the sealant .... replaced many a sealed unit that this has happened to....

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