Do nothing for a minute nick - ok here goes..... I have an HHO kit coming from the States - ordered and paid for it last week - I wanted to test it on the truck for a whiley to see what the crack is - the medium sized one, cost me £418 ($547)and will cost another £100 to get into the country through customs - lots of people are waiting to see how it is - My best mate the plumber has one on his 2 year old hilux (44mpg) and his recomm came from his dentist who`s wife gets 88mpg AVERAGE from her petrol focus....

http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/index.php
I wasn`t looking for comment until its on and working , but the concept is simplicity itself, and makes sustainable sense, and financial sense too

I was going to do it without saying anything I looked two years ago then changed my truck I'll have a look at that site and post the details of the one I found. It makes perfect sense to me I remember making hydrogen and setting it alight at school in science best experiment we ever did if it can work on a 2 year old hilux it'll work on a new shape l200 I'm sure you need the right ecu controller to allow it to work most efficiently I'll look forward to what you find out

I only got it due to the personal recommendation from someone I really trust not to buy a pup. He has a carrera s4 too, but he`s not putting one on that lol - they send a 45 page manual by e-mail, which is a bit chewy but very interesting - I`m about half way through.

why not it could make it go faster after all hydrogens a flamable gas it makes so much sense

I've just made a seperate thread for anyone interested and to update info

Posted by: Basil

---

I only got it due to the personal recommendation from someone I really trust not to buy a pup. He has a carrera s4 too, but he`s not putting one on that lol - they send a 45 page manual by e-mail, which is a bit chewy but very interesting - I`m about half way through.

---

have a chat to oilybits, the guy there will tell you about running common rails with veg conversions

right, update to this thread, though i poss have another iron in the fire regarding parts

email from adrian at oilybits, ive cut n pasted the lot so you can see


Hi Mike



Ours are all the 6-port variety – this is the same as the 3 port variety though, the 3-port variety is a fully working 6 port valve but with bungs over the 3 unused tails.



For 4 pcs of the valve, CW switch, we could do them for £54 instead of £62 (inc VAT). Delivery for any amount £9.50 inc VAT.



Re your enquiry about the HE kits, we don’t make a massive margin on any of this gear as the end users tend to be on something of a budget, but we could offer 10% off, so making each kit £180 inc VAT. Full spec here: http://www.oilybits.com/heat-exchangers/...t/prod_933.html



Regards,



Adrian Henson



Oilybits Ltd

www.oilybits.com

T: +44 (0)1747 811 211, E:sales@oilybits.com

Reg'd in England & Wales 07554137

Reg'd Trading Address: Unit 1 Black Venn Farm, Hartgrove, Dorset, SP7 0AS, United Kingdom

Reg'd Head Office: Unit 5B Sunrise Business Park, Blandford, Dorset, DT11 8ST, United Kingdom

P Think before you print



From: mike a [mailto:treeboa@hotmail.com]
Sent: 03 April 2012 16:40
To: sales@oilybits.com
Subject: multi purchase discount



Hi, as a member of two mitsubushi L200 dedicated forums and also a veg converter im often asked how to do it, I have a few have contacted me regarding converting their trucks using the pollak valve, what sort of discount for parts would you offer assuming I want to order items in multiples of three or more, currently I have three members have contacted me with serious enquiries, no doubt I will have a few more showing interest once the word gets around







Regarding the pollak valve you supply now, a few years ago I was fitting them but unlike yours, if im reading correctly, they only came fitted with one useable return , the others were blanked off which meant only one return line – the vehicles original, was needed, are yours fully fitted with two returns now ??





Regards mike

Posted by: treeboa

---

right, update to this thread, though i poss have another iron in the fire regarding parts

---

This seems to have tapered out before you revealed your full hand... What's the last iron TB?
I'm looking at getting a kit at the end of the month and TBH this one seems as reasonably good for the money. Any last minute advice/surprises?

I had got the impression Treeboa was endorsing this kit from Oily bits. Kinda wish I'd known about it before spending £740 on mine. Granted kits like mine and Mike's have auto switch over. But the price for this kit is impossible to beat I believe.

Well that'll do for me... Thanks Mike/Yoda. more to follow when payday comes about!

I'm sure Mike will be on here to confirm this later. I'm quite new to it all really.

one of the guys on here has odds and sods for a conversion, i hoped he had the full setups as he purchased a load of stuff, unfortunatly he does not

what he does have is

Zitat

---

4 tecalemit (tda518) 3 way 12v vavles
4 full fillter kits (like the one i sold you)
1 tigerloop ?

Second hand
2 tecalemit (tda518) 3 way 12v vavles
1 veg oil heater water large

Plus lots of misc pipe connectors and tpeices.

Ive got 2 secondhand ones setup on a plate with all the piping

---

now the telcamite valve system is different in the way it works being separate valves qnde requires power at all times to hold the valvesoff/on, unlike the pollak which uses power to throw the valve , im not sure if mick has the paperwork as well which has the wiring diagrams on it as its a bit more complex with telcamites

at moment im sitting here typing one handed as i have my right hand/wrist bandaged up after a fight with a gas torch nice hole in me which means for the moment i cant play around with anything that can get into my skin and infect the bloody mess

i will ask the guy if he has the paperwork regarding these valves/setup and go from there

what i will say is the oilybits one is near a full setup supplied, when i was going to convert the warrior i was going to use the pollak based system, only reason i went with the smartveg was i got offered the one i have brand new still in its box at a near same price that the oilybits one is

Me...... I was just sucker and didn't realise there were other options. Or should I say didn't check. What with Smartveg having gone out of business, DieselVeg is the one that comes up when you search. At least it is German manufactured and has auto switch over. On the back of me converting my old man is going to as well. Suffice to say I will be suggesting he buy the Oilybits kit.

if i was going for it now i would use the kit, though i would add a few mods, one would be a temp sensor on the oil line so i knew when it was at 60f before switching, second would be removing the pre filter thats in the main tank and adding a prefilter/water trap up in the chassis , the third thing would be a totally different aux tank, ideally aluminium, and to fit on the side of the tub from the tailgate to just behind the wheel arch, bout 4 inchs thick and just under the lip

Not major modifications at the end of the day though eh!

hardest one would be the tank, it would need to be sourced unless someone on here is good at aluminium welding

What about a 25litre steel jerry can?

anything will work as long as its secure, fuel proof,has a filler neck and a pipe outlet plus breather

my thoughts are by having a thin, long tall tank on the wall of the tub you lose less effective space, having it there also would save a lot of climbing in the back if you have a canopy fitted

Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

Mine's just inside the tails gate. Was my only option with a canopy and 500litre water tank in the back. Maybe something like Werbung: this. Wouldn't be too hard to modify it for outlet and breathers.

ive had problems with internally painted jerry cans in the past, the paint over time peels, anyone using one would be best adding an end filter to the pipe to save problems later on

I use Jerry cans regularly to store my veg / petrol mix as the ktc cartons burst very easily and my nozzle has an end filter and there has been some crud caught by it in the past, difficult to tell if its paint but the end filter is defo worth while

watch these internal painted jerry cans if you store bio in them, that stuff can actually clean the remnantstaining of red diesel !!!, seen it on a few forums i frequent were diesel heaters that have been run on red within a tank of bio are totally clean, and a fair few comments about how spills have stripped paint

OK... for anyone interested, I just purchased an OILYBITS UCO VEHICLE CONVERSION KIT. I should be fitting it this weekend and running it from Cambridge to St Davids the weekend after...
1. I'll keep you all posted on installability/userfriendlyness
2. Mike/Yoda/anyone else on here who knows anything (basically more than me!) about installing these things, I reckon I might have questions on saturday if I get confused.
3. Purely as a contingency measure, anybody willing to help if I break down between here and S.Wales? (looking A14-M6-M42-M5-M4-A40 kind of route...)

unfortunatly im not in your area as i live in county durham

advice, carry a spare main filter and the tools to change it, surprising how initially the tank and lines can block a fuel filter on first use at 100%

dont use jubilee clips on any part of the fuel system

the tubs floor is twin thicknesses with a gap, watch were you drill through if your up by the bulkhead, the main tanks just below you, drill hole for fuel line oversize and fit a grommet to prevent chaffing

your choice were you fit the primer and sencondary aux filter, mines all in the engine bay, valves fit just nice on the inner wing passenger side

my pipe in pipe exchanger is doubled across the engine bay bulkhead behind the intercooler, some advise says to run the exchanger in series with one of the heater pipes, smartveg and the other few i have done i find it better to run in parallel, cut both and have the exchanger linked in that way - reasoning on that is in summer /spring if you dont have the heaters on full belt the flows restricted, in parallel its not as it will bypass the heater matrix, it does not effect the operation of the heater

go plumbers merchants and get yourself some silicon plumbers grease, its clear stuff, makes fitting water connection joints a lot easier and less likely to leak

both heater pipe connections can be made where the heater pipes go through the bulkhead, tight but possible, mine are connected there

wiring is easier if you go under the truck and come up through a square grommet thats in the passenger side footwell

on a basic system you dont have a purge per-say, on the initial startup from fitting warm up on diesel, WHEN ENGINE TEMPS ON NORMAL, throw the switch to veg, run 10 seconds and then to diesel before switching again, keep this up for about 3 minutes, doing this will purge any air from the both fuel systems, only needs to be done once unless you run out of fuel in one tank

shutting down, mine flushes for about 90 seconds, its not enough on tickover, at 30/40 mph its enough, if your flushing on tickover give it at least 3 minutes

flushing, depending on ambient temps you dont always need to flush if you are going out again soon, height of summer ive left mine all day in the sun without flushing, I AWAYS FLUSH AT NIGHT IF IM STOPPING THE ENGINE FOR OVER AN HOUR

I wouldn't begin to offer advice as long as Mike is around. I fitted mine and although we succeeded I am still only learning and Mike gave me a fair bit of advice. I understand the principles but Mike is light years ahead.

Posted by: Yoda

---

I wouldn't begin to offer advice as long as Mike is around. I fitted mine and although we succeeded I am still only learning and Mike gave me a fair bit of advice. I understand the principles but Mike is light years ahead.

---

and i will bet like me when i did mine the longest/hardest part the job was wondering were it was all going to fit