So the old girl was a bit slow to start since i bought her. Thought it was either glow plugs or fuel leak back. It always started after about 5 seconds of cranking, few more if it was really cold (i cycled the glow plugs a few times before starting)
The last 2 days it has talen a fair while longer to start, with a lot more fast cranking before the engine catches, then this evening i went to start it and it just cranks. Occasionally it will sound like its about to catch but it doesnt.

Ive pumped the fuel filter housing but still nothing.
Any ideas at all so i can atleast have a crack at it over the weekend before a trip to the garage on Monday?

Side note: if its fuel related which i think it is, if i clutch start it will it just conk out? I live on a hill so clutching it isnt the problem, but i dont want it to conk out and be stuck at the bottom of the hill!

cycle the glow plugs as many times as u like if they are dead they will not do a thing

Would dead glow plugs cause it not to start at all?

No. It would start eventually. You deffo got fuel to the injectors. U cracked one off?? Injector i mean before someone starts.

Quote: Mallinman wrote in post #4

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No. It would start eventually. You deffo got fuel to the injectors. U cracked one off?? Injector i mean before someone starts.

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Yea. For the sake of 5 min take of the diesel stop solenoid on the fuel pump. They can sometimes stick. I’m sure @123hotchef has done it and it don’t take long.
Does it start first time on the key every time when it’s warm??

Yeah in the past, when engine is warm is starts straight up.
What are the options if im getting fuel to injectors or if im not getting fuel to injectors? If not, can i still clutch start it to get it to garage? (Im assuming not)

Also, where abouts on the fuel pump is the stop solenoid? Is it easily removed/checked?

If it’s cranking over and you ain’t got no fuel to the injectors then ur wasting your time clutching it. Check fuel first. Check full volts to the glow plug rail. Then check timing. After that it’s sensors then compression check. I think it’s on the back of the pump towards the gearbox. Can’t fully remember. Someone on here will.

Cheers mate. Ill check for fuel in the morning. Been running sweet lately too 😐

It will prob be something real simple and an easy fix

Quote: Mallinman wrote in post #10

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It will prob be something real simple and an easy fix

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@GIB123 - solenoid is awkward to get at but ok if you have the right spanner - it's on the top/back on the pump above the outlet pipes - about 22mm hex I think. Once you have it out, careful to not loose the spring and plunger - they'll either stay on the end of the solenoid or in the hole in the pump. Put the solenoid back in without the spring and plunger to test it. If you get it started, the ignition will still cut out the engine (so you'll not need to stall it) as there 's another cut off valve in the pump controlled by the ECU. I'd put money on this problem being a knackered fuel pump though, especially if the truck was previously a bit gutless at low revs.

Quote: Heathen wrote in post #12

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@GIB123 - solenoid is awkward to get at but ok if you have the right spanner - it's on the top/back on the pump above the outlet pipes - about 22mm hex I think. Once you have it out, careful to not loose the spring and plunger - they'll either stay on the end of the solenoid or in the hole in the pump. Put the solenoid back in without the spring and plunger to test it. If you get it started, the ignition will still cut out the engine (so you'll not need to stall it) as there 's another cut off valve in the pump controlled by the ECU. I'd put money on this problem being a knackered fuel pump though, especially if the truck was previously a bit gutless at low revs.

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And as a side note, only when its cold. Or been left to stand quite a few hours would it struggle to start.

possibly the stack pipes on the fuel tank may be allowing the fuel to drain back if they're corroded ........ just a thought

Quote: krutly wrote in post #15

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possibly the stack pipes on the fuel tank may be allowing the fuel to drain back if they're corroded ........ just a thought

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If you get no fuel at the injectors, the best way way to test the stack pipes/fuel filter housing is by running a pipe from a can of diesel straight to the Injector pump - if it fires up ok, the pump side is obviously working.

Cheers guys. Ill crack an injector off tomorrow and then test the solenoid if im getting fuel to injector. Hopefully i am, then i know its not gonna be pump. I can deal with stack pipes/bad solenoid. Dont really want to be shelling out for a pump recondition.

I did think it might be fuel leak back initially (when i first bought it) as it was a bit of a slow starter but always used to catch after a few turns and read up about leak back. Had all the lines in the engine bay checked and no leaks so if it is leak back its most likely the tank side.

Ok so is this the right way to check for fuel at the injector? I undid the locking nut and cranked. Should fuel be pissing out from there when cranked? Because its not. It was wet with fuel like in the picture when i undid the nut.

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Yes mate - there should be plenty of fuel coming from that union - you don't even need to take the nut right off.

Get it hooked up to a can of diesel next see if that does anything. The injector pump on these incorporates it's own low pressure pump, which seems to be a bit of a weak point in the system. This is why these trucks are not fitted with a secondary fuel pump like a lot of other diesels (usually run off the cam shaft or electronically).

So, bit of an update. Got it towed to the garage as i just didnt have the time to go through the fuel system. I (and the mechanic) were certain is was going to be a fuel issue. He put a new stop solenoid in it, checked all hoses, nipped everything up. He had it for a few days and managed to get it started, and when it was warm, it would start straight up again, so had to do all his tests of a morning. He thought that it was probably going to be stack pipes but wanted to rule things out as he went. Finally disconnected the filter/housing and ran from a can (like Heathen recommended) and it started ok from cold, hooked the filter up again and tried it next morning and it was fine.

What else did he change on it this whole time? New set of heater plugs (just in case). Thats all it was. Could have changed them at home. Live and learn. Only one plug was working.

Strange though, as it wasnt getting fuel to the injectors when i tried it, and even he said it was probably leak back as it took ages cranking to get fuel to the injectors (he had a battery pack on it so the battery wouldnt go dead while cranking)
Now it starts on the button (touch wood)

Glad its all sorted now though , bet its a relief

i did say glow plugs at the start

Quote: 123hotchef wrote in post #24

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i did say glow plugs at the start

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