The @ tag you have used should ' tag ' him

Immmm heeeeerrrrrreee÷

I was going to say it could be the front seal. Take the upper timing cover off. Turn the crank till the notch on the pulley lines up with the first mark on the lower cover. The dot on the camshaft pulley shoult line up with the pointer at about 3 o clock and the fuel pump should be about 11 o clock. Slacken the pump pulley bolt. Then slacken the timing belt adjuster and slide the belt off the fuel pump then remove the bolt. You might have to give the pulley a bit of a scelp with a hammer to xslacken itbut tont hit the teeth or the threaded centre. You can now access the front seal. Get one from Mitsubishi. When putting back together. Fit the pullet put thread lock on the bolt and screw in. Make sure all marks are lined up and refit the belt and tension up them make sure the pulley bolt is tight. Then re build the cover etc.

my fault sorry was only trying to help

Hi Alan G thank you for the fast reply First call Monday morning Mitsubishi and order a seal will let you know it fixes the problem

Quote: PETER R wrote in post #28

---

my fault sorry was only trying to help

---

Quote: Alan G wrote in post #27

---

Immmm heeeeerrrrrreee÷

I was going to say it could be the front seal. Take the upper timing cover off. Turn the crank till the notch on the pulley lines up with the first mark on the lower cover. The dot on the camshaft pulley shoult line up with the pointer at about 3 o clock and the fuel pump should be about 11 o clock. Slacken the pump pulley bolt. Then slacken the timing belt adjuster and slide the belt off the fuel pump then remove the bolt. You might have to give the pulley a bit of a scelp with a hammer to xslacken itbut tont hit the teeth or the threaded centre. You can now access the front seal. Get one from Mitsubishi. When putting back together. Fit the pullet put thread lock on the bolt and screw in. Make sure all marks are lined up and refit the belt and tension up them make sure the pulley bolt is tight. Then re build the cover etc.

---

engine light came on last night ,sent chris a message to see if its anything to do with his unit ive just swaped, truck is going back in Monday

quick update on my troubles , took it back this morning , the engine light was a maff sensor fault , and he found one of the vac pipes was in place but wasn't on the nipple securely , so cut it back and clipped it on , put the light out . so straight away things appear normal again truck pulls now where it didn't before, so hopefully that was the problem it might have been losing pressure from the vac pipe not being on securely

hope you don't mind me sharing your thread as it is kind of the same issues

Have you considered the fuel pump needs set using a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) If this is out, starting is an issue hot or cold. I had similar issues after changing cylinder head, belts etc. Found the issue by reading the crank timing expected and actual using Eclipse software (similar to Delphi and WOW) Best of luck

Hi @Alan G well changed the front seal in the injector pump and it appears to have made no difference could not get a seal from Mitsubishi they say they don't do them so got one from the local diesel injection people.
The new seal was straight forward to fit and the truck started up with after half a dozen turns was a bit spluttery and settled down to a steady tick over I let it running for about 15 minuets wile I put my tools away turned it off and it started straight off the key
so I went and had shower and some tea gave it about an hour and went to try and start the truck took half a dozen turns I've left it for another 2 hours tried it again took half a dozen turns so I feel like I'm back to square 1.were to start next ???????

Have a look at the top of the fuel tank and see if it is damp/wet. The tank stack pipes are bad for corroding

Have been all over the truck today mainly under it the stack pipes are rusty but dry and I yanked them about and they seem good as in they didn't snap off so followed them to the front of the truck and the fuel pipes as well as the brake have been coated in grease if you rub the grease off the pipes look like new so must have been looked after as the last owner said it was regularly serviced. I would not mind replacing the fuel pipes and the stack pipes as who knows what they are like inside but I'm happy that they are not leaking at the moment

Meeshy suggested it mite be timing I don't mind buying a dti timing kit but why would the timing just alter? When I did the injector pump front seal I checked the timing marks all lined up. and the pump looks like its were it was set at the factory
I've been out in the truck tonight for an hour or so mixed driving some in town and some duel carriage way and some back roads truck was a pleasure to drive just wish I could just sort out the starting

The video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6v2G0Inz5Y explains it better than I will be able to. Very important to ensure when setting the timing marks, the backlash is removed as well, or setting the pump lift will be out.

@ Alan G hello sorry to be a Paine but I have had the over flow valve out of the back end of my pump the one that holds the T pice for the return from the pump and injector leak back the ball valve in there was not closing I could blow through it so took it apart and cleaned it not that I could see any thing come out of it and got it to seal ran the truck and it seem a little better starting today but still not off the button
There is another valve at the front of the pump with a triangle shaped head( this would be a Control Valve I believe) if that was not working correctly would I be right in thinking that would interfere with starting as if it was open too the pump presser would drop in the pump as when starting it as if the pump turns over builds up presser and the engine seems to fire on all 4 cylinders giving a clean start up not hit and miss as if bleeding air out or am I thinking completely wrong on this
By the way were would I get triangle shaped socket to remove the control valve ??
Sorry if I'm been a pest but I'm desperate to resole this problem

@Alan G

If its not the filter or the tank then yep the pump has an issue. I dont think you can get the tool for that valve as specialists would have to buy whole kits costing a fortune. Your best bet is prob another pump or get yours overhauled.

Hi Alan G thanks for the quick reply I think I have found a set of 3 sockets for the pump that remove the triangle shaped nut there not to bad about £26 for the 3 will have to speak to the suppler Monday to confirm and think I may have found a suppler for the valve too again will have to contact them Monday
I've been over my truck three times and can not find a leak any were (that's not to say there isn't one ) I think the pump is the issue I may be been ambitious but I fancy doing the pump myself (dose this sound like hold me beer watch this )??!!!!
Will report back as and when I get started
Thank again for your help

You may find this helpful if you're going to attempt it - it's pretty much the same pump (Bosch VE), but the one on the L200 is a licenced copy made by Zexel. The one shown here lacks all the electronic sensor gubbins that Mitsi introduced, so is more like the pre-fbw pumps - all the mechanical operation should be pretty much similar. Good luck - I've got 2 knacked ones that I've not got round to fixing so if you make it work, I'd love to see a write up!

http://quietglow.com/dieselvanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild

Hi Heathen thanks for the link very useful don't know if I will strip it down that far but I had the overflow valve out and it was stuck open I cleaned it and re seated it have ran the truck and taken it back out to check and it was still ok working fine there is another valve at the front of the pump the control valve I would like to take it out and check that too as I believe that if it's not working correctly that it can affect starting too it has a triangle shaped head so I'm trying to find some sockets for the ve pump will let you know how I get on
Forgot to mention since doing the overflow valve the starting is better now about 4 turns to fire up as apposed to 12 or more
Thank again for the link