Thanks for that folks. Great stuff.

The guy from china suddenly realised he was giving me bull about the code reader.
It does not work on non OBD cars🙄🙄

I will try pin one but am a little nervous about it.

Again thanks for all your help

I have just looked at the vac drawings above... but I am confused as to where the various solenoids are for the various functions. EG.... What do the 2 solenoids on a plate do... one brown one normal...to the left of the rocker box as you look into the engine bay??

Where are the turbo solenoids positioned..... do I just follow the vac pipes from the various components or are some of them purely electrical and therefore difficult to find?? The manual isn't very helpful with things like this. They seem to be written for a trained Mitsubishi mechanic rather than a diyer??

Again thanks for all your patience... these diesel thingybobs are really complicated!!

Stuart

@123hotchef is better at explaining the different modules and there position.

@Major Malfunction ill let you i am washing my hair

@krutly aint bad either

I have my own problem to access, I now have no flashing light.

Quote: 123hotchef wrote in post #29

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@Major Malfunction ill let you i am washing my hair

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It needs a bit of explaining and I have just arrived at me mams back in Liverpool so I have to show some interest lol
One of the others will be along soon enough

No Problem.... enjoy your visit

Stuart

Those two solenoids facing opposite directions... one of those controls the turbo and the other one controls the throttle assembly - don't really know what that one really accomplishes though. You're probably going to struggle diagnosing a problem without a voltmeter and a hand vacuum pump though you might get lucky. Can't remember which colour solenoid is which at the moment, however the one towards the back of the engine bay is the turbo and the front one the throttle body. if you disconnect the turbo solenoid plug and put 12v through it straight from the battery you should here it clicking - this doesn't mean it is working, but if it doesn't click it is definitely not working.

The turbo lever should be on the bottom bolt when the engine is stopped and when idling it should move so it is quite close to the top bolt. There's a few things that can cause this problem - It's possible you have a split vacuum hose somewhere, or the diaphragm in the turbo actuator may be split causing a vacuum leak (had this on mine recently). There is also a vacuum sensor between the turbo solenoid and the turbo actuator - if this has broken the ECU will probably not try to activate the turbo at all. The problem is that there are several other things that can go wrong that are not directly related to the turbo, but which freaks out the ECU so that it just switches the whole turbo system off - you really need to get those fault codes to have a clue where to start looking.

Hope this helps.

Heathen that is fantastic..... what you say makes a lot od sense...... My turbo actuator does not move at all... but as you say the eco may be shutting things down. If I use the pin one solution for the codes... how easy is it to read the slow blips and the quick ones... Is it obvious or quite subtle???

Cheers

stuart

Two things to watch out for - if you get the wrong pin (9 I think instead of 1), which can happen, when for instance some muppet has put the plug back in the plug holder the wrong way up - if your connecting to one of the door bolts this will blow a 10A fuse for the door open & interior lights (under bonnet), so not a big problem if you have a spare fuse laying about.

Reading the blink codes is pretty straightforward - you may want a bit of paper/pen to mark them off first few times you do it (especially if you have more than one code stored up). Main problem is there seems to be no gap between the EML light going off after the first 5 secs and the first long blink, so it's easy to get the first one out by 10 - just let it cycle all the way through to make sure you've got them down right. I was nervous about doing this first time too but it's pretty hard to mess it up really - just make sure you get the right pin ;)

A quick update for you all..... I still haven't fitted the blanking plates..... still need to get some radiator hose. I will do this regardless.... I just hope it won't fail the emissions test. Today I let it tick over for 15 minutes..... rough running although it ticked over at the normal speed but sounded every now and again like a misfire in one cylinder on a petrol engine. The egr valve moved in and out about 3mm in the almost closed position smoke was whitey blue. It started OK but was a little rough until the tick over settled. I bought some wynn's diesel egr3 spray and emptied the whole 200mm into the induction hose as per the instruction and took it for a ride of about 10km. This stuff is supposed to clear egr and turbo crud. The turbo actuator arm or the actuator itself never moved at all during this process (at tick over anyway - could not see it whilst driving obviously). Now smoke not blue but white.

It drove roughly and sometimes would pick up, sometimes no power. Because I saw the white smoke I thought maybe there was water in the fuel tank.... I had just changed the fuel filter and purged it of air and did not see any water in the fuel??? However my fuel was low.... very low, so I put some more diesel in to 3/4 full..... she then drove home like a thing possessed... she ticked over beautifully.... picked up and accelerated like she should. As per the Wynn's instructions, i let it tick over for a few minutes and the eml light came on??? I then disconnected the battery for 15 minutes to clear the light hopefully. It went out when restarting and fired up beautifully ticked over really smoothly????

Well have I fixed it???? Trouble is was it the EGR/Induction cleaner or was it the new fuel?? this is always the trouble when you do a number of "fixes" at once.
Who knows.... I will keep you post anyway in case this helps any others with similar symptoms.

Thanks too you all....I will keep you posted.... especially on the turbo element.

Cheers

Stuart

Still sounds like air getting into the fuel to me (white smoke = fuel not igniting properly as it is not fully compressing) To check this is the problem, try bleeding the fuel filter housing again - if you have air in there you know this is the root of the problem. I've suspected this for a while now on mine (specifically a leak in the stack pipe going down into the fuel tank - when you fill the tank the air can't get in but as soon as fuel level drops below the leak point the problem reoccurs).- Haven't found the time to drop the tank yet but it's on my to do list. It may just be a small leak somewhere else that's building up slowly over a few days till it gets to a point where the problem comes back. Shame you didn't read the fault code - would be great to know if it the same as mine or if I have two unrelated problems.

You may have cleaned the EGR valve but take it off and look and feel the inlet manifold, I bet it's choked up to hell. Nothing short of a full decoke and /or an EGR blank wil cure that but would cause black smoke cause the engine can't breath. The additive will clean the injectors which is a common cause of white smoke, either continue until no further action is required or replace them.

I have checked the egr valve and inlet housing..... it was not coked up at all prior to cleaning.... just very oily. I will read the codes via Pin 1 and let you all know..... I need to know my self.

Cheers to everyone.... the saga will continue I am sure especially if the eml light come on again.

Cheers to all

Stuart

Quote: Heathen wrote in post #39

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Still sounds like air getting into the fuel to me (white smoke = fuel not igniting properly as it is not fully compressing) To check this is the problem, try bleeding the fuel filter housing again - if you have air in there you know this is the root of the problem. I've suspected this for a while now on mine (specifically a leak in the stack pipe going down into the fuel tank - when you fill the tank the air can't get in but as soon as fuel level drops below the leak point the problem reoccurs).- Haven't found the time to drop the tank yet but it's on my to do list. It may just be a small leak somewhere else that's building up slowly over a few days till it gets to a point where the problem comes back. Shame you didn't read the fault code - would be great to know if it the same as mine or if I have two unrelated problems.

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One of two

http://www.milneroffroad.com/mitsubishi-...r-control-boost

http://www.milneroffroad.com/mitsubishi-...control-boost-1

I think it is one of these, @123hotchef is the boost expert he will tell you

they dont control it @Major Malfunction

@Alcanara one of the 2 together does cant remember what one check what pipe goes to the actuator

Electronics ain't my forte,

well they kind do in a way lol

Are you trying to confuse me ;0)

If I remove all the EGR gibbons anyway as planned,. will it fail emissions..... will the consumption go up?? questions questions???

NO & NO

yes and no to the Q before the one that mm answered