Hi Nice to be able to get in and finally chat.

I have the L200 Animal 2003. I have searched on here and done quite a bit of research and I think I may have the EGR problem. My eml light came on and then would go out.... so I avoided it for some time as it always seemed to run well even when on. UNTIL one morning I came to start her up and she was really rough.

I have ordered the blanking plates although having looked inside the valve itself and the inlet side of things, everything was black and oily but certainly not caked up. (98000 miles) I cleaned the egr valve as I was in there.... and it seems to work as it keeps popping in and out.... Quite violently if I disconnect the solenoid.

I have not received the blanking plates yet (I think royal mail have lost them) but perhaps If i could give you the symptoms you may be able to help me pinpoint the problem.

It ticks over OK, however on revving her she becomes irregular about 2000 rpm.... at tick over the egr valve clicks in and out quite regularly at the same time as the engine seem to miss beat (not smooth and regular) I don't know whether the valve is reacting to the blip in the engine or is the cause of the blip??

When I first discovered this the exhaust was bluey white colour and would really belch out ...... at tick over it was clear.

I am currently running injector cleaner through it and the engine is now up to temp and has been running for about 15 minutes.... it seems to rev/pick up quite a bit better bit the eml light is now on permanently and if I turn the engine off and then start up again it stays on...... where as previously it would not come on again.??!!

Can anyone help me please.... suggest checks that I can do.

I hope I have given you enough data to be able to make a rough diagnosis.

Cheers and thanks for your help.

Regards

stuart

@ronniecabers had a stuck egr valve not long ago and may be able to tell you what symptoms he had

not saying this is the case but it's possible that the eml light being thrown up is completely separate from your egr issues
most common reason for the eml light coming on is overboost. I small adjustment of the turbo screws can cure this (in the "how to" section)
usually if the eml comes up on mine (overboost) then I lose all power so I pull over, turn engine off, wait 60 seconds then restart. probably only happens to me once or twice a year

I don't lose power at any time (well not so far). When previously it has come on... I would stop and restart and it would be gone....at no time though did it stutter or lose power... rode as normal???

Now with it starting up so roughly I have not taken it out as I don't want to damage anything.!!

I will give it a small run this afternoon and see what happens.

It has rained here (In Spain for christi sake) for 4 days non stop torrential.... not like that pissy stuff you get in the UK.

Thanks for your suggestions though.

Any more pointers please?

regards

stuart

Quote: krutly wrote in post #2

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@ronniecabers had a stuck egr valve not long ago and may be able to tell you what symptoms he had

not saying this is the case but it's possible that the eml light being thrown up is completely separate from your egr issues
most common reason for the eml light coming on is overboost. I small adjustment of the turbo screws can cure this (in the "how to" section)
usually if the eml comes up on mine (overboost) then I lose all power so I pull over, turn engine off, wait 60 seconds then restart. probably only happens to me once or twice a year

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Krutly.... Where is the "How To' section..... can't find it anywhere???

how to section is here -------> Classics - How To.....
I think egr removal is on page 4 and turbo adjustment is on page 5
the turbo is linked to the vacuum system I believe which I completely dont understand but @Major Malfunction and @123hotchef have a much better understanding of that.

I should point out it's quite rare for an egr valve to cause a problem. The main reason they are removed and blanked off is the cooler part goes porous over time and can then allow hot exhaust gasses into the cooling system which usually results in head gasket failure. So removing the egr valve and blanking it off combined with bypassing the cooler is usually preventative medicine to eliminate future problems.

you dont have any other lights on as well as the eml do you when driving ?

Hi again Krutly

My EGR valve is not actually sticking..... it is moving in and out very slightly (with a clicking noise as it closes up) at the same time the engine seems to miss a beat. As previously said., I don't know whether it moves like that because of the missed beat or that it in fact causes the missed beat.... if that makes sense!.

I thought it was originally the EGR solenoid.... but disconnecting that cause even more lengthy movements of the egr valve, so I guess that is working. I bought the blanking kit as I understand it from previous postings was that the egr valve allows unburnt fuel AND OIL to be recycled via the inlet system which in turn created all sorts of crud to be formed which eventually caused running problems (which is what I thought I had at the time).

So to hear what you have just said re removal is all new to me??

I am now having given it a run this afternoon, think its more likely to be the turbo as you had thought because clearly I was getting power problems at the throttle.

I will read the How to's that you mention and see where we go from there.

Thanks for your help

stuart

I now mo

Whoops I missed a bit..... No i do not get any other lights on.... just the eml.

Incidentally when I took it for a run, it was quite difficult to start..... previously it always started albeit ticking over a bit rough until whilst feathering the throttle. Does this still sound like a turbo boost problem???

Cheers

stuart

Any body else with the same problems? please help if you can.

Maybe this is such a well discussed topic that peeps are a bit pissed of with it.... but other than the over boost and the egr valve issues could not find any other real explanations???

timing can cause all sorts of running and starting problems too
if the timing belt has jumped a tooth it'll be a pain to start, chuck out smoke and wont run properly
has the truck always had these problems or has it just happened recently ?

The eml light came on a few months ago but as I said went out again..... its only in the last couple of weeks that it ran roughly and I haven't run it because of that.... until today that is.

I had all the belts done at the correct time and they all seem to be correct and adjusted nicely and the fact that occasionally it runs very sweetly tells me that timing is OK.... but what do i know.

I will check all the pipes to the turbo and see what is going on there.

a number of people have replaced the 2 solenoids by the egr valve the 2 that are together on a plate, one brown one normal...... what do these control? could this be the issue?

cheers

stuart

solenoids are to do with the vac system (witchcraft in my book)
it does sound odd that sometimes it'll be fine but other times it wont
hopefully when others read this post they may have some ideas for you

Should the turbo actuator move at all on starting up and tickover.... I can move the turbo thingy with my fingers..... and i can push the steel bar to the vacuum thingy in, so those things are loose... but the actuator itself does not move at all on its own. I cannot at this time check to see if it moves whilst revving...but it certainly does not move at tick over??

thanks again for your patience and responses.

stuart

You might want to have a read of this thread,

2004 L200 puffs smoke when ticking over

If the EGR was blocked or faulty then normally you would have black smoke as it restricts the air flow to the engine.

You say blue / white smoke, can you be more clear, blue is oil contamination (possibly turbo related) White is timing/injector fault.
To have both would make it difficult to diagnose what colour smoke is emitting.

@Alcanara

As Krutly says I had a sticking EGR Valve and it got worse very quickly! If I remember rightly it sounded like the valve was clicking but wasn't. My symptoms were incredibly sluggish ...to a point i thought I had the handbrake on, but I have black smoke from the exhaust. Mine got so bad I couldn't get it started one morning at all. Sprayed some carb cleaner on the valve whilst the engine was running , and put my foot down ...then sprayed it againm and again ...after about 10 mins it ran fine BUT i still removed the EGR as i didn't want a repeat!

Don't know if any of that is any help!

Cheers Ronnie....... I am open to any suggestions and will give it a try....... If it were a petrol engine, I might stand a chance of finding whats going on..... but deisels and all the vacuum/sensor stuff is pretty tricky for me.... so thank you for your help.

I am quite prepared to spend some money on the old girl..... I have had from new and she has never cost me a penny..... the only time (other than services) she has had to go into the garage was when Mitsubishi did a "call back " on 2 components. By the time they did this I had moved to Spain and had imported her. Mitsubishi tracked me down and paid for the spanish dealership to do it all... Great service.

Thanks again

stuart

I think I have the same problem with my EGR - on tickover it flutters open/shut - I think that it should be shut completely and then open smoothly at higher revs/temps rather than jumping about, but it would be good if somebody can confirm this.... I have had no success diagnosing this problem though - does anyone have a couple of spare EGR solenoids they would be willing to part with?

@Alcanara - For now you can try disconnecting the wiring to the EGR solenoids - there's two of them (one plug on each) and they are in the engine bay on the passenger side top rear - you can follow the vacuum pipe from the EGR valve to find them. This makes the EGR stay shut, as though it were blanked, so you will be able to determine if this is causing your problems. Don't muck with anything else till you read the error code - wonder if it's 41?

Wenn Sie hier auf Links zu eBay klicken und einen Kauf tätigen, kann dies dazu führen, dass diese Website eine Provision erhält.

Thanks Heathen...... I made the mistake of thinking because I had a 16pin d connector that this was automatically OBD2, so I bought one of those cheap jobbies off eBay.!!! Disaster.
The seller was very helpful in suggesting that give it away to someone who had a car which was OBD compatible and that I should try this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vehicle-Reader-...rds=code+reader

He states that it will work with a L200 of 2003 vintage.... but it clearly states that this machine is OBD2 but he still states that it will work... "his techies tell him so"

To cut a long story short I have not been able to get the fault codes yet as until today i have been afraid to drive it too far for fear of damage.

I will check the solenoids.... The EGR valve definitely keeps moving about 4mm virtual every couple of seconds... If i disconnect the connector it moves more violently along all of its travel rather than only 4mm.

Oh to get this solved???!!!

By 'the connector' do you mean the wiring going to the EGR valve? if so that is for the valve position sensor - this gives feedback to the ECU so that it knows the valve has got to the correct position... Think it will open fully if this is disconnected, which is the opposite of what you need to test whether this is the problem or not.

btw - you can read the fault codes without a code reader - follow Read your fault codes to read them as blink codes from the engine management light - all you need is a bit of wire.

Is the crank sensor ok no damaged wires or lose. Or damaged Crank Angle Sensor Blade.

I know this is not the problem on mine - think it is more likely to be related to air leaking into the diesel.

Quote: Heathen wrote in post #18

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By 'the connector' do you mean the wiring going to the EGR valve? if so that is for the valve position sensor - this gives feedback to the ECU so that it knows the valve has got to the correct position... Think it will open fully if this is disconnected, which is the opposite of what you need to test whether this is the problem or not.

btw - you can read the fault codes without a code reader - follow Read your fault codes to read them as blink codes from the engine management light - all you need is a bit of wire.

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Quote: 4life-extreme wrote in post #19

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Is the crank sensor ok no damaged wires or lose. Or damaged Crank Angle Sensor Blade.

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http://www.milneroffroad.com/mitsubishi-...items&explode=1

shows the position @Alcanara its behind ENGINE CRANK PULLEY TWIN PULLEY

Intrigued by the obd2 sellers comments as from experience of others it seems to be MUT3 , snap on and some Delphi code readers that work on the classics. If you do decide to buy it , clearly get in writing that he will take it back if it doesn't read the codes... or even better , if he can get you video evidence it works on a classic.

As goes the turbo actuator arm not moving , that sounds like a possible solinoid or vacuum problem, as with the engine running that arm should move

Classic 2006(56) 2.5 Diesel L200 Animal running issues...

turbo setup 03 l200

Mitsi VGT Turbo Setup

4 x4 Vac Layout ( inc back of head pipe pics )

A few old posts that might help Stuart, the turbo setup and vac layouts are just scanned in documents