Hi, Looking for a cheap way out, Does anybody know how I can check my Injectors out at home, without costing a small fortune? or what thread the fuel line connectionn is / what pressure they should open at??
Thanks for any info or advice, other than stop being a tight a**e and take it to a garage....

what truck you got?

I guess a classic then if you're asking about pressures

It's a 2003 warrior. Was wondering what pressure the injections work at and how to check them.

Quote: Heathen wrote in post #2

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what truck you got?

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@paulw trucks been pretty reliable so far (touch wood), but I like tinkering to keep things working as they should. Most problems have been caused by a lack of maintenance, and jobs done incorrectly by previous owners - think I've mostly got on top of these for now, but need to take the gearbox out for some work when I have the chance.

@Wattonite - manual says 14,710-15,690 kPa - that's from the "13E - Diesel fuel" section. I had my injectors out a while ago and stripped them down for a visual inspection and decarbonised them. Pretty straightforward job really. Have you got a specific problem or just checking things out? You could get a longer fuel line made up and have them inject into a bottle to check the spray pattern.

13E-Diesel fuel link

yeh bought my warrior day england won rugby world cup in 2003, told showroom would be late as watching extra time, they were too! thought it would be my last truck, sadly not to be, but still miss it

That's pretty poor mileage for any vehicle to die!

What happened to it - was it the dreaded head?

full services on the dot, It popped towing van back from devon after mums funeral, not a happy time!!

Quote: Heathen wrote in post #10

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What happened to it - was it the dreaded head?

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Must have been - can only imagine. I'm after a disco 2 at the moment!

love our disco2 , not without probs, bit it is sound

Aye - I'm sorting of waiting for that to happen to mine really. It's used as a proper workhorse still

It's not to drive though neighbour has a series 3 landrover that we are going to do an engine swap on, so it will be the donor vehicle - his original 2 1/4 petrol cracked the block and the head

@Heathen , original problem was head, makes a change i know! Now smokey, white ish, cooling all seems fine, smells a bit, so looking toward proving fuel pump and injectors are ok without spending too much more!!

Sounds like pump timing might be out

That's what I'm hoping (or dodgy injector) just been searching the forum to see how to check it all, but need to make a tool to check (have a dti) but no dimensions for the tool, and hoping for some definitive answers on how to do it!!

I wrote a how-to on this the other day mate - includes a link to a tool that will work

Cool. Just found it, will have a read through and see what I can do.... thanks.

Air in fuel might be another (cheap) cause - other things can also cause it, but like you say, check the cheap options first.

Ok, just had another rough week at work, thought I would have a quick look at the injector timing job as per @Heathen how-to instructions to see how easy it will be when I get the dti adapter, only to find my bottom cambelt cover has lost its timing knob thingy!! Any ideas how to mark positions without this? Or is it another strip down to remove cover?

You could half the angles in the howto and mark them directly onto injector pump sprocket or you could line up the pump and cam sprockets with their timing pegs and make your own TDC mark on the lower timing cover (lining up with the pulley notch). I'm not sure either of these would be accurate enough though. Ideally you want to remove the lower timing cover and and line up the inner crank sprocket with it's timing peg, then put the cover back on and mark it in line with the notch (not sure how easy or visible this would be though). Even more ideal, get a replacement lower timing cover!

Another thing I was wondering - have the tappets been adjusted properly since the new head went on?